Accurizing for idiots?

[Cowled_Wolfe]

Ok, I've spent enough time thinking what kinda guns I can get with my new-found $100... It's time to go back to the guns I've got. That leads me to thinking... How can I accurize my 10/22 to perform well as a longer range benchrest/target rifle? Aside from adjusting the sites (which I have an inherent lack of ability to get right), I've got a few ideas. A few are permanent and a few others aren't, so I'll list them under two lists: permanent and non-permanent. Feel free to laugh, call me an idiot, flame me, tell me I'm wrong, share your own crazy ideas, etc.

Non-damaging:

First off, it's the all-weather carbine, so it's way too light. Most people would buy a bull barrel and a stock to fit, but I'm a cheap bastard, so I'm thinking of weights. Those excercise weights that velcro around your ankles/thighs/etc to be precise. Those would make the gun a bit heavier, right?

Secondly, a scope. Once again, being the penny-pincher, I'm thinking a non-optical scope. Possibly a straw with masking tape?

Building on the ultra-high-low-tech-scope idea, what about making a ghost-ring sight from a straw? It'd be like one of those sights on the MP5s! Just like a real SEAL!

Next: A bipod. Not just any bipod, though. A bipod which will put all the rest (err... itself*) to shame! I'm thinking a few assorted PVC fittings and some 3/4" or 1/2" pipe. Maybe even some real duct tape feet.

Last, but not least on this list: It needs a recoil pad so that that harsh .22LR recoil won't throw off my aim. I'm thinking a pillow and some tape. Better yet, a real rubber recoil pad! Like an old shoe!

Ok, now for the next list:

Permanent/Damaging:

Let's start off by bedding the action into the stock. Probably a good layer of wood glue of epoxy. That oughtta keep the action in place -- even when you want it out!

A muzzle break would be awsome. Right now I'm thinking a cordless drill and an eighth-inch bit. A few holes should do the trick. Of course, I could always to a recoil compensator too -- just saw a few notches outta the end of the barrel.

Still reading? Good, because I'm almost done. The bolt impacts the reciever/bolt stop pin, so why not pad it? I'm thinking superglue and felt. Just apply liberally to the inside of the reciever, as well as the bolt stop pin. You might even use epoxy! This serves to pad the impact, AND it serves a double purpose: it can hold extra oil to keep the gun moving smooth.

Finally, I'd like to suggest modifying the stock to fit better. A little plaster of paris, a little black spraypaint... It'll look just like those custom jobs!

If I get enough responses, I might just photograph my rifle after I make it custom...

 

[Fen]

For weights, dont bother with the ankle straps. Get some lead bricks from a gun shop, saw it into strips and glue or tape the strips to the rifle.

get a real scope. You can find cheap tascos for around $15. Granted they are meant for bb guns, but they'll work far better than a straw. If you really are that cheap, you'd be better off with the stock iron sights than with any home made sighting device.

bipod, go to home depot and buy a big angle bracket used to hang shelves with. Shouldn't cost more than a buck or two. you can tape that to the barrel.

Don't mess with the action.

The recoil buffer might work but I doubt you would notice any difference and it certainly wont make you (or the rifle) more accurate.

recoil pad on the buttstock... paper towles folded up and some duct tape.

Do not drill or cut the barrel, you will only make the rifle less accurate and you risk leaving burrs inside the barrel which, neadless to say, is not good.

for the stock, get some bondo at any auto parts store, skip the plaster. Bondo can be sanded down easily and will look beter after being painted.


But first and foremost, before you do any of this, QUIT BEING A CHEAP BASTARD!! Save up some cash and buy real accessories. Molding your own stock is about the only thing I would ever consider doing on that list.

 

[Cowled_Wolfe]

Quit Being A Cheap Bastard!!

You know what? After all these years, you're the first person who's ever told me that... I really hope this isn't the start of a trend!

 

[Chiram2003]

Of course, as far as weight on the barrel goes, you could just use a torch ($15 at Wal-Mart and you can return it later!) and some of the afore mentioned lead billets and just melt some lead onto the barrel.

Same can be used for bedding the barrel.

You can also improve the accuracy by removing some weight from the trigger pull. Go find five or six of those click pens (you can probably get some at work) and replace the springs in the trigger housing.

As far as sights go, take a straight pen with the head to the back. Then, a couple of drops of super glue, and voila, you have a very small, accurate sight. Take a bottle cap (like from the 20oz coke bottle) and heat another pin. Poke a hole into the cap in the center, then two on the side. Thread low weight monofilament (fishing line) through the holes on the side and wear it over your eye, so you can just see through the hole in the center. Olympic-style objective!

Now on a slightly more serious note, if you have $100, check out Bass Pro for the Redhead Bronze series scopes. Prices run from $50 to $100. They aren't the extremely accurate scope that you will eventually want, but they give a decent start.

You should also check out Cabela's Fajen Stock/barrel combos.

 

[Cowled_Wolfe]

Te be honest, that $100 is going to replace my scratched copy of Halo 2 (it was LE!!! No!!!), and hopefully it'll get me a Mosin Nagant too. If not the MN, then I'll be doing the Tasco cheapo sight and one of them "black warrior" bipods for the 10/22...

Of course, if I did this whole "Accurizing for Idiots" thing, I could probably have the super-modded 10/22, a MN, AND that new copy of Halo 2!!! Yay stuff!

 

[Chiram2003]

Rofl

 

[DT Guy]

I think you're going at this backwards.

The primary expense, the rifle, has already been purchased. This means that, however cheap you really are from here on out, you're still spending some coin on the overall rig.

What you have to do is start out with a steel pipe and a nail...


Larry

 

[esldude]

Quite simply until you get a scope, none of the rest will be noticeable enough to matter. A scope bumps up aiming accuracy by an order of magnitude. Until you have one all the rest is just wasting time and effort. For even if it matters the chances are it won't matter enough to show up through all the inaccuracy of your aiming ability.

The scope doesn't have to be high magnification. Getting the crosshairs improves potential aiming accuracy the most. After that magnification only makes incremental differences. So say a 4x scope will be the most benefit to you.


http://www.riflescopes.com/products/762243/bushnell_rimfire_4x32.htm

I normally would recommend a better and somewhat more expensive scope. But seeing as the alternative is a straw and pinhead, the above will up your accuracy by a very large amount for only $30. And still be better than the $15 scope by a bunch.

As for a rest, forget the PVC. Get a bag of sand. Or some old cut off blue jean legs sewn together on the ends and filled with the sand. One or two for the front. For the rear, use an old snipers trick. An old sock half full of dried beans, a bean bag, with the top tied off. Place it under the toe of the butt. And squeeze with your left hand for elevation changes. These can come darn close to the accuracy of using a full mechanical benchrest. Though they aren't as fast or convenient to use. If the sand bags are too expensive for you, try a couple of old phone books for the front rest. And the bean filled sock for the rear.

Now for the muzzle break, you must be kidding. The recoil from the 22LR isn't enough to matter compared to many other things. At most you might make more noise for yourself. And chances of accurately drilling or sawing holes in the barrel without lousing up accuracy really bad are pretty poor. You will likely assymetrically upset the bullet just before it leaves the barrel, thereby guaranteeing yourself inconsistent and poor accuracy.

 

[Danindetroit]

I would be very leery of heating a gun barrel, even though lead has a low melting point some steels are annealed by heating to 400 to 600 degrees, and then air drying, and then if it isn't even heat warpage is a big factor.

 

[Cowled_Wolfe]

It scares me...

A few of you sound like you're taking this seriously.

 

[JohnKSa]

Take off the barrel band and recontour the forearm.

Put some bedding at the back and front of the receiver to keep it from shifting in the stock now that the barrel band is gone. I use woodfiller and some plastic wrap for this. No messy release agents--just put the plastic wrap over the filler before you press the receiver down into it. When it dries pull the receiver up out of it and the plastic wrap will pull off the dried filler. The wood filler can be chipped out of the stock relatively easily if you screw up the first time.

When that's done, take an adhesive felt furniture pad and stick it in the barrel channel right at the front of the forearm.

Do whatever it takes to make the trigger usable. Took me some time with 600grit sandpaper on my last 10/22.

I've done this to two or three of them and it will get them shooting around an inch or better at 50 yards with economy ammo.

 

[Danindetroit]

I have watched guys lift up junk cars, with a forklift, and a chain, and stand underneath while they removed parts, that chain breaks, or a hydraulic line gives squish. I watched a guy do the same thing with a bumper jack, lying underneath a car wrenching on it, no stump to catch the car frame, or a cinder block, or tire ramps. The car was moving about 6 inches, while he tried to unloosen a bolt. The jack was on hot asphalt, and the tire iron was still in the jack swinging around. I have had people ask me to weld car springs, and shackles, then ask me to braze them, not as bad. I saw someone, use a coat hanger and duct tape to put a tie rod and ball joint together, and get ready to go on the freeway. I will believe about anything at this point about ignoring saftey.

 

[Fen]

I've worked in an auto parts store for 2 years. I've heard all about the automotive jerry riggin that gets done. Some people just refuse to believe that some things are not worth trying to fix in your garage.

The worst i've seen.. i'd have to go with the supercharger intake piping held to gether with duct tape. The guy had 2 3/4'' pipe on one side and 3'' on the other, so what does he do? He wraps the small side in duct tape until it's big enought to fit in the larger side.

Sometimes I just want to slap people and bring them back to reality.

 

[Danindetroit]

Was it a wet supercharger, that had a chace of blowing up, or was it just going to suck dirt and ruin the supercharger? I really liked my blown buick. The guy with the ball joint was going to find out the fun of a wheel flopping around while trying to drive on the freeway, and could have took out a lot of innocent people. Luckily, he went down a little curb in a parking lot while turning, and it popped out again, and finally got a ride home, I think he came back the next day, and put the end on. Luckily 99.9% of the time things like that go when parking and turning sharp than hitting pothole on the freeway.

 

[madmurdoc]

I'd hate to see what happend if that guy w/o the tie rod hit one of our joyous man-eating potholes at freeway speeds.

 

[Cowled_Wolfe]

Anyone heard that one song?

I think the title is "Rusty Chevrolet", it's by "Da Yoopers" but alot of versions loose on the web have "Dr. Demento" as the artist.

It's even the right season to listen to it! (Christmastime.)

 

[rugerdude]

"Te be honest, that $100 is going to replace my scratched copy of Halo 2 (it was LE!!! No!!!), and hopefully it'll get me a Mosin Nagant too. If not the MN, then I'll be doing the Tasco cheapo sight and one of them "black warrior" bipods for the 10/22..."

At least you have your priorities in order, halo 2 is truly awesome, do you have xbox live? If so what's your gamertag? (mine is doubletap9mm)

Save 20 bucks and get a disk docktor, then you MIGHT be able to get the MN as well, but don't count on it. Mine cost me 91 dollars after tax and that was the best deal I saw at the entire gunshow I bought it at (the gunshow covered 6 acres of floorspace) It WAS worth it though, a great gun. I have a 10/22 and the plastic bipods work but aren't the strongest things in the world. If you get a cheap scope avoid the adjustable magnification ones, it is just one more thing to get broken on something of sub par quality.

Happy shooting,
rugerdude

 

[4V50 Gary]

Keep it simple, very simple.

First stabilize the barrel by ensuring it's free-floated. Ditch the barrel band and see if you can slide a dollar between the barrel and the synthetic stock. You might want to scope it too and then test it with various brands of ammo. That's as far as you go. Period.

Bipod. What for? If the bipod swivels or moves, it makes your forearm unsteady. Better to rest it on a rolled up jacket, bean bag, rock or what not. Weights. What for? Barrels are heavier so as to keep them more stabilize when they're warmed for repetitive firing. It's not as critical on the .22 LR (but yes, you may replace it with a heavier barrel) if you control your rate of fire. Recoil pad? Well, only if you need the additional length of pull. Keep it simple.

 

[Cowled_Wolfe]

Yep, definately taking it too seriously.

Thanks for all the input guys -- both the real advice, and the thoughts on how to ruin a perfectly good rifle. Considering the amount of real advice this thread's yeilded (unexpectedly!), I might just try accurizing my 10/22 for real. Probably not much more than taking the barrel band off, putting on a scope, and getting a bull barrel later on (if money allows).

Btw Rugerdude, I don't have XBL. I won't be getting it untill I get a new Xbox, which won't be for some time... Some major time...

Be glad to play if I do get it, though!

 

[gxi.llc]

No, man--what you really need is a silencer! You just drill some holes in a bic pen body (instead of the barrel) and line it up with the bore with a cleaning rod. Then you use some bailing wire and duct tape to hold it in place. Wrap the pen body with some paper towels, then cover the whole thing with more duct tape. Some subsonic ammunition makes the project complete. Duct tape also works well for that bedding job--just wrap the action and barrel in it until it fits nice and snug. Total cost: about $3.00, depending, of course, on whether you use name-brand duct tape, or that generic crap. Personally, when it comes to my guns or my automobiles, I always pony up the cash for the name-brand duct tape. Accept no substitutes.