A new 38 / .357 Mold

[studman5578]

I am about to start casting for the good ole wheel gun and am not sure what to get for a bullet mold. I run my magnum loads hot so I think I'm going to get a gas checked mold, rather than deal with making some super expensive alloy. Is this a good idea? Should I get the mold that has a gas check grove cut into it or should i crimp on the checks? I am using lee size kits if that makes any difference.

I would like to use the same mold for the 38s and .357s, but if I get the gas checked mold, will the gas check groove cause leading in the 38 spl? Thanks.

 

[Clifford L. Hughes]

Studman5578:

For twenty or so years I've shot the Lyman 358156 without gas checks with no leading problems. The gas check grove acts as another lubrication ring. I did the same thing with my Lyman, 44 magnum bullets. Sorry but I don't remember 44's the mould number. I used mostly wheel weights; however, I used any scrpt lead that I could find with excellent results.

Semer F.

Gunnery sergeant
Clifford L. Hughes
USMC Retired

 

[studman5578]

I don't lubricate in the groves, I have been tumble lubricating. You said you use WW, so your BHN is at about 15 correct?

Sounds like I'd be better off getting the non-gc model if there isn't a need to use one. Thanks for your help!

 

[GP100man]

studman

Here`s the Lee 158rnfp dropped from the mold 6 cavity with isotope alloy which is very close to WW.

I shoot em sized & lubed with White Label`s Carnauba Red from 2.5gr. of clays in 38spc. to 15.5 gr. of IMR4227 in 357.

I add a little tin to tuffen up the bullet a bit with upper H-110 loads

 

[reloader28]

Like GP, I also like the Lee FN.
I use straight WW on everything but hunting bullets to keep it simple when I collect and remelt them.