A disassembly problem.

[HisSoldier]

I have two auto pistols in my collection that I can't get apart. Both look like Ruby pistols but one is a Union made in France.The normal procedure is to put the safety forward and up, rack the slide so the safety holds the barrel in the right place to turn the barrel, turn the barrel 90 degrees and slide the slide forward off the pistol.
In both cases I believe the internal hammer is just a few thousands too high in the cocked condition, which, being internal hammer models, prevents the slide from getting past them.
The first time I took the Ruby apart it was a hassle but I finally got the slide over the hammer, but now it won't go. I know for a fact that the problem was interference from the hammer on that pistol but with the Union it's only conjecture.
One cannot get at the hammer by taking the grips off, I looked. With the hammer uncocked the slide does go farther forward but then of course the hammer sits even higher though forward a bit.

So, my question is how can I get the hammer to go farther back a few thousandths, maybe 1/32", so I can slide the slide off? Anyone else have that problem ever?

I thank you in advance for any suggestions.

 

[HisSoldier]

I guess no one else has had that problem.

I looked both pistols over again, and the only way to get the slide forward past the tip of the hammer is to drill a hole to reach in and push them farther back, and then what?
Then I'd have to figure out why the hammers and/or sears have worn enough to let them sit too high like that, and repair them.
That may be as simple as grinding off the tip of the hammer face, but I hate to drill a hole. This is what happens when one can't look at an old gun as being junk, because neither of them is worth 20 minutes of my time.


That is, unless someone knew another way to get the slide off.

 

[tangolima]

I worked on a couple of rubies; to make a firing pin and other stuff. It was a while back so took me a while to recall how things work.

Indeed a high hammer in cocked position can keep the slide from going forward. The sear engagement in those guns is mostly negative. The hammer actually goes forward before it drops as you pull the trigger. It is unsafe and it was one of the things I needed to fix for my clients. In your case you may be able to make use of this dubious design deficiency to your advantage.

With the grips removed you should see the trigger bar and disconnector, which moves the sear. With a screw driver you should be able to pry the disconnector to move the sear BACK towards the hammer. Since the sear engagement is negative, the hammer will be cammed down. Maybe enough to clear the slide.

Try that. Come back if it doesn't work. I have a few more suggestions for you to try.

Slide off then what? We will talk about that when you reach that point. At least you should make the sear engagement non-negative. It is not safe.

Good luck.

-TL

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

 

[HisSoldier]

Slide off then what?

I just finished making a new sear for an Astra 4000 Falcon, because they are somewhat rare in the states and I couldn't buy one. I made it out of S-7 and had it heat treated to 56 Rc.
Are these guns worth all that? (Unexpected amount of work it was) Honestly no, plus it may just be the hammer, or both.

I do get a certain satisfaction out of resurrecting old broken handguns that can't be measured by the gun's value.

 

[tangolima]

So you got the slide off?

-TL

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

 

[Tidewater_Kid]

On my Ruby pistol, I have to remove the magazine stop and that releases the hammer spring pull the trigger and that allows the hammer to drop down far enough for the slide to come off.

TK