9mm Steyr

[tangolima]

Will soon start handloading for my Steyr hahn in 9mm Steyr. The plan is to convert 38 super brass by reducing the rim diameter. Sizing, expanding, and seating will be done with a 38 super die set. Powder charge will be 38 auto as starting load, and not to exceed regular 9mm Luger max. Anything else I need to watch out for? Your inputs and comments are much appreciated. Thanks.

-TL

 

[T. O'Heir]

.38 Super is too short. The Steyr is 13 thou longer than the Super. Headspaces on the case mouth.
The Super's case diameter is .406. The Steyr's .382.
Anyway, read steyr-hahn's post, 4th one down, here. Midway lists the Starline brass at $21.99 per 100.
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/reloading-9mm-steyr.62109/
$98.26 for CH4D dies from Buffalo Arms. Currently on backorder though. Try direct from CH4D.

 

[TheGuyOfSouthamerica]

All I have heard on YouTube (iraquveteran8888) is that the Steyr-Hahn by todays Standards shoots ammo in the 38 super/9x21 mm ballpark

but

the older guns are not rated to modern Standard pressures.

Supposedly the Steyr-Hahn's original ammo does not surpass Low to Standard pressure 9mm Luger ammo.

I would stay with energy Levels below 300 ft/lbs that is below 1000 fps with an 124 grain lead bullet.
This is just my opinion and guesswork to stay on the safe side!

 

[TheGuyOfSouthamerica]

Wikipedia states this for making brass for the 9x23 Steyr.

Reloadable cartridge cases can be made from 5.56mm NATO, by trimming them to the proper length, but this also requires inside reaming of the case mouths to reduce the thickness of the brass

The round is supposed to be similar in energy as the 38 acp.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/9×23mm_Steyr

 

[74A95]

Starline, Midway and Grafs have 9mm Steyr brass.

If you're going to use 38 Super brass, use 38 Super Comp or 38 TJ brass. It is already rimless. 38 Super Comp is available at Starline, Midway, Grafs. 38 TJ is available from Starline.

 

[tangolima]

Yikes. 38 super brass is indeed too short. It was recommended by an old timer, so I assumed it was good. Well I assumed wrong.

I did size up a couple of 38 super brass, they seemed going in just fine, headspacing didn't seem much out of whack either. I will make a few dummies to check carefully. I could be lucky enough to have a short chamber. I can take head clearance up to 0.008", otherwise I will get the proper 9mm Steyr brass.

Thanks gentlemen.

-TL

 

[tangolima]

I tried. It didn't work.

Two problems. Either my pistol has a little bit of tight chamber, or my 38 super brass has a bit of thick wall, 0.013" near the mouth, the dummy round couldn't chamber, even the sized brass went in just fine. 0.355" bullet + 0.026" wall = 0.381" versus 0.379" in the spec. I could fix that but turning down the brass, but it is quite a bit of work.

The 2nd problem is headspace. I definitely has more than 0.008" head clearance. I can't fix this.

So much to the original plan. Am going to order the 9mm Steyr brass. Hopefully they have thinner wall.

Good I checked with folks here. Thanks again.

-TL

 

[tangolima]

Bought star 9mm Steyr brass. I got the same problem. The loaded round stopped half way into the chamber.

Measured the brass thickness. 0.013" at the mouth. That makes the neck diameter of the loaded round 0.356" + 2 * 0.013" = 0.382", which is 0.003" over spec. Not kosher.

Polished the chamber helped a little bit. Still couldn't chamber. With electric drill and file, I managed to reduce the brass thickness to 0.011" in the neck. That worked.

Loaded several test loads. Now just need to test fire.

-TL

 

[tangolima]

Test fired the rounds this morning. They all worked great.

The pistol is a Steyr Hahn 1914. It shot flawlessly with pretty good accuracy. 2" groups at 15yd, Bullseye style slow fire. The trigger can be better. Will tinker with that later.

-TL

 

[Mike Irwin]

Great to hear that you've got your Steyr Hahn up and running.

They are a very fun gun to shoot.

Using .38 Super was the old timer's trick when absolutely no brass was available. It only required reducing the rim.

Apparently slightly oversized bullets were used in conjunction with extractor tension to hold the case in the chamber and give hope that it would fire.

Sometimes it worked, sometimes it didn't.


I believe it was Nonte in his book on cartridge conversions who gave instructions how to repurpose .357 magnum or .38 Special brass, but it involved trimming to length, then chucking cases into a lathe to reduce the rim and cut a proper extractor groove.

Laborious to the extreme.


How are you loading the magazine? Have you found proper stripper clips?

 

[Mike Irwin]

Oh, and I would highly advise AGAINST trying to adjust the trigger on your S-H.

If you screw something up, you're going to be in a world of hurt finding replacement parts.

 

[tangolima]

Thanks.

I have the clips. But I found them not really necessary if I don't need to load the pistol fast. Slide back. Hook the safety to keep the slide back. Load the cartridges one at a time by hand till the magazine is full. Unhook the safety to let the slide fly home.

As for the trigger, I will be careful. I understand the consequence if I screw up. Parts are hard to find. There is an online place out of Canada still carries some parts.

-TL