9mm old school, WWII Walther P-38

[44 AMP]

I recently got one of these, code AC 42. gun is in pretty good shape. Besides the safety firing if it fails (so always decock in a safe direction), what else should I know about this piece of history? Any tips, hints, or warnings I ought to know? I haven't fired it yet, but the previous owner said he had and it worked OK.

Come on Walther guys, help me out, please.

 

[T. O'Heir]

If it fires when the safety is disengaged, it's broken. Do a net search for the history etc. There are lots of sites.

 

[denfoote]

http://www.waltherforums.com/vb/

These guys know everything there is to know about the P38.

http://www.p38forum.com/

 

[DrLaw]

I once read that a way to accurize the P38 was to drill a small hole into the top strap that goes over the barrel and then insert a small ball bearing that would ride atop the barrel. I think the slight pressure on the barrel helped to hold it in place with the sights. I think two Ball bearings placed at 90 degrees from each other would work better though.

I also agree. It is not supposed to fire when you put on the safety. The hammer is supposed to fall, but there is supposed to be a block on the safety that gets between the hammer and the firing pin.

The Doc is out now.

 

[Jim Watson]

there is supposed to be a block on the safety that gets between the hammer and the firing pin.

Not on service models. The hammer is dropped against the head of the firing pin which is supposedly locked in place. If the safety lug breaks off the firing pin, it will go off. I would drop the hammer ONCE on a round or primed case to be sure it was working right but would then ease the hammer down when decocking, no sense in hammering the parts.

 

[pistolet1]

44 AMP

Check the safety, primarily where the ridges contact the the engagement surfaces of the firing pin. The ridges are not that thick or pronounced, and coupled with repeated usage and possible metal fatigue, could cause the safety to fail. Also check the slide top cover for fit and tension. The forward retaining arms of the top cover can weaken over time, causing the top cover to fly off the gun, along with the rear sight, firing pin lock, spring, and retainer.
The AC42 was produced in fairly large numbers, some 120,000 being made in that year. Beginning in October, 1940, Walther began using a different serial numbering sytem with their pistols. The first 10,000 block of pistols would be a no letter block; the next block would start the numbering over again, only now the letter "a" would be added as a suffix after the serial number. The next block would then use the letter "b", and so on. This would continue until the beginning of the next year, at which time the factory date code would be AC41, and would start a new no letter block of serial numbers.

 

[Laserlips]

FWIW:

There is a dedicated "P38" forum...

I recommend you check 'em out, as those guys are EXPERTS in the P38 pistol.


Best Wishes,

JPomeroy

 

[crazy charlie]

go to the p38forum.
I took their advice before buying a arsenal refinished/updated P1 and have no regrets.
Don't mess with that safety. Get it to a good smith and get it fixed. If it goes full auto on you because of a malfunction the rate of fire is about 1000rpm. A good way to hurt yourself and those around you.

 

[Hard Ball]

The P38 was made by more than one company. AC is the manufacturers code and means that yours was made by Walther. 42 means it was made in 1942/

 

[44 AMP]

Just to be clear...

The safety on the gun I have works ok (is not broken), but I knew that on this model Walther that if the safety breaks it will fire, and was looking for other tips and hints, as this is my first P-38.

Thanks for the replies and the info.