9mm live round jam?

[loademwell]

I just put together a few reloads using 124 (purchased) lead projectiles that are all ready lubed. I loaded them using the data for 125 grain lead rounds. The book said that the oal. should be 1.115 Myne were at 1.110
I put together about 5 and headed out to the range. (It was cold) lol, anyway, I never got a chance to shoot them. I loaded up the clip and put it into my Taurus PT92. When I tried to unload (take out a live round) it got all jamed up. I am unable to pull back the slide and kick that round out.

I had this happen in my dear rifle $200 to get it all fixed.
Im tempted to attempt to shoot it and see if it will go boom. (I was on the lower charge side) Any idea on why this happened or if this should be safe to shoot?

 

[saitek]

9mm jam

hello did you try the loaded round in the barrel out of the gun ? the new bullets could have a longer o jive than the bullet that the spec's that you used there buy jamming it into the land's or the loaded round will not fit the chamber due to slight buldging from the bullet installing into the case . when you get it apart remove the barrel and try the loaded round to see if it plunks into the chamber .
i find when i do my 9mm with a different bullet i haven't used before and especially with lead bullet's i run them through aq lee factory crimp die and it smooths the loaded round and apply'sthe btarer crimp as much as needed .
http://leeprecision.com/reloading-dies/hand-gun-dies/lee-carbide-factory-crimp-die/

 

[LE-28]

When I tried to unload (take out a live round) it got all jamed up. I am unable to pull back the slide and kick that round out.

Don't try to shoot it out. It may not have gone completely into battery. (It's not the whole way into the chamber).

I've had this happen and tracked it down to the resizing die not touching the shell plate and the case didn't completely resize, the bullets are pressed in crooked, the OAL is to long(depending on what brand of pistol your shooting) and you have a bullet stuck in the riflings or you didn't take all the flare out with the crimp die.

Regardless of what's causing it if you do get it to fire and it's not completely in battery you could blow the head off the case and cause a Kaboom. We can't see from here if it's in battery or not. You should be able to see if the rear of the slide is flush with the frame of the gun. If it isn't don't try to fire it.

I had this happen to me once with a PF9, I pried the ejector open to open the slide and took the barrel out with the live round in it. I took a wooden dowel rod and tapped the live round out of the barrel, Lightly! There's hardly any chance that it will go off but it's just the idea of having to do it.

 

[PA-Joe]

Did this happen in your Taurus PT92 or dear rifle?

In what way did it get stuck? Bullet in barrel, case stuck on extractor?

Sounds like the COL was too long and the bullet got stuck in the lands.

Lead bullets are typically wider (bigger diameter than jacketed bullets and therefore have a shorter COL.

 

[Wreck-n-Crew]

Sounds like the COL was too long and the bullet got stuck in the lands.

Seen that happen quite a few times with people new to reloading.

The book said that the oal. should be 1.115 Myne were at 1.110

When you get it out use a plunk test to determine your OAL then compensate with less powder if necessary.

The casing should touch the ridge at the end of the chamber and the bullet should not touch the barrel. The round should spin easily without catching and fall out when you turn the barrel upside down.

 

[Sure Shot Mc Gee]

I think its called the Ker-Plunk test. {lol} You should have preformed on one or two rounds just after their reloading and before going out to shoot. What you experienced with your 9mm is why I only buy new jacketed bulk bullets for my pistol's use. I never have shot a lead or dipped plated bullet out of my 9mm's. Never!! But that's my personal choice and behavior that likely doesn't apply to others.

 

[g.willikers]

To remove the stuck round, try this:
Take out the magazine, obviously.
If the gun is of the hammer type, cock the hammer to make things easier.
Keep your finger off of the trigger!!
If it's a striker fired type, remove the striker if possible.
If not, Keep your finger off of the trigger!!
Put the top of the slide, above the barrel, against the edge of a wooden table, with the barrel pointed in a safe direction and not blocked by the table edge.
Then seriously shove forward on the grip.
If the round went into battery with normal effort, it should come out.
If it's too stubborn for that to work, then the slide and barrel will have to be removed and the round persuaded out from the muzzle end.

 

[MarkGlazer]

Unfortunately the step that should have been taken was to create a dummy round and try to cycle it manually through the chamber when you were creating your first version of the load. Yes, the plunk test is ideal as well but I like the satisfaction of knowing that a round will cycle through.

I have encountered the problem previously and I resolve it by field stripping the weapon and removing the round with a pair of pliers. I've had to do it on the firing line a few times. My wife has a CZ75 P01 and the chamber is smaller than the min OAL. So, if I don't get my measurement right, it doesn't pass the plunk test.

With due respect g.willikers, man those steps scare me, especially cocking the hammer, too much of a chance for something to go wrong. I do realize that field stripping with a live round is also a risk. But if you do it the right way it works.

Please be very careful.

Good luck.

 

[Stavman11]

I had a similar issue with some Frangible ammo i loaded

I had 1 round that had quite a Bulg from the bullet... as i found out once I got it out

After seeing another post about the same issue with the same gun... I decided to give it another try

I have some Gloves, the rubber sticky kind ya get at low'e or any home improvement store.. i use them for Holding .223 brass when i trim it

So I put the right hand one one, becouse previously it would just tear up my hands reefing on the slide and ultimatly I would give up.... So with the glove on I was able to get a MUCH better grip... and after a few ALL MY MIGHT Pulls on the slide it POPED out Finaly....

I was a bit apprehensive at 1st since it was a live round... but just be sure yer finger is not on the trigger... and well... REEF on the slide....


Good Luck and be safe

 

[Wreck-n-Crew]

Unfortunately the step that should have been taken was to create a dummy round and try to cycle it manually through the chamber when you were creating your first version of the load. Yes, the plunk test is ideal as well but I like the satisfaction of knowing that a round will cycle through.

FME that is backwards. Make sure it fits then cycle the dummy round if you want a confirmation. But I have never past a plunk test then failed too cycle a round properly. I have got a one stuck from not plunking first however when the OAL was too long. Had I plunked I would not have flunked..

 

[MarkGlazer]

OK. I'll give you that.
Quite honestly, I've never pulled the barrel and tested in that manner. I've created the dummy, then tried to cycle.... maybe next time I try something new.

 

[Snyper]

If it's too stubborn for that to work, then the slide and barrel will have to be removed and the round persuaded out from the muzzle end.

If they could do that, there would be no problem to begin with:

I am unable to pull back the slide and kick that round out.

 

[TATER]

The 92 has an external extractor, Push the back-end and lift the front-end of the extractor to release it from the rim of the round and lock the slide back.

 

[g.willikers]

Snyper -

If they could do that, there would be no problem to begin with:

It's been awhile since I looked at one, but wouldn't the 92 slide and barrel come straight off the front of the frame, no matter if there's a round in the barrel or not?

MarkGlazer -

man those steps scare me

I've done quite a few this way, both for myself and others.
So, far not one mishap.
And they all ejected ok.
It's not different than what the gun is trying to do with every shot.

 

[vulcan73]

die setup

It was stated elsewhere that the resizing die should touch, or nearly so, the shell holder to resize the entire length of the brass. Also, the flare in the brass for bullet seating must be 'flattened' while crimping the brass but do not over crimp. Do a plunk test to confirm the round will easily fall into and out of the chamber. I had the same problem with one of my 9mm's and quickly found that I needed to be more careful in the set up of the dies. It took a 10X eye loop to even notice the flare was not removed.

After several jams at one range session, I resized and recrimped every 9mm load I had. I plunk tested each round to ensure the dies were set correctly and have experienced no jams since.

 

[skizzums]

i had that problem with alot of rounds when i first loaded 9mm, i was flaring the case mouth too much and they were getting stuck in the chamber

usually had to remove the slide and pry the rim out with a knife or whatever i had with me, on the lot of 500 rounds that were getting stuck, i ran them through a 38/357 crimp die and it took the neck back down to normal

your experence could be something else, but surely your OAL isnt your problem

after my problem, i measured lots of different factory ammo and my reloads cases from right above the rim and up to the case mouth and came to my own conclusion acceptable sizes for my guns

right above rim should be between .385-.391
at case mouth .374-.378

im sure smaller than those sizes wouldnt be an issue, those are just the parameters i found with measuring ammo that works, i had mouths measuring over 385 that would obviously get stuck,

if you have some calipers, see what you come up with

 

[1SOW]

SAAMI MAXIMUM 9mm Luger cartridge diameter is .380".

To prevent this from happening:
With a factory round, do the plunk test with the bbl out of the pistol' It should "fall" in to seat on the case mouth with an audible "clink", you should be able to spin the cartridge when seated, then turn the bbl over and it should "fall" back out freely.

If reloading a new-to-you-bullet:
Pick up 8 or 10 "Spent UNSIZED Cases" . Find a few opened up enough that the bullet can be inserted slightly by hand, then do the "PUSH TEST".

With the bbl out of the pistol: insert the bullet in the case just far enough to hold. Gently PUSH the case and bullet into the chamber until it seats firmly on the case mouth, then turn the bbl over and carefully pull it back out.
Measure the OAL. Do this a few times to get a consistent length.
This maximum OAL is where the bullet contacts the leade/rifling.
Subtract about .015" to allow for component and reloader variation.
This is the MAXIMUM USABLE OAL for that bullet in that pistol.

Find load data at that length OR SHORTER and you're good-to-go

At first this sounds like a hassle, but after seeing how it works, it'll take just a couple of minutes and prevent a lot of wasted effort. Save the spent cases that you can seat the bullet bullet by hand for the next time you need to do the push test with a new bullet.

This works every time.