98k: creeping trigger

Schmeisser

New member
Since I have got myself a pair of prescription shooting glasses (Zeiss Scopz), I am becoming increasingly fond of my 98k (which now shoots approx. 1MOA w/ handloaded ammo). The only remaining problem is that the second stage of the two-stage trigger is creeping. So I am considering to polish the relevant parts of the trigger system, but I haven't done it before. Any advice for me? Is it necessary to disassemble the rifle completely (stock/receiver-barrel)?
 

cntryboy1289

New member
can you explain a little better

First off, can you explain a little more in detail about what you mean? What is happening that feels like it is creeping? Most of the 2 stage triggers will have very little to no creep on the 2nd stage.
 

Harry Bonar

New member
trigger

Dear shooter:
Not to be smart or sarcastic but if you need to know if you need to remove the stock to do trigger work on your mauser I would hesitate to go any farther telling you how to do a 2 stage trigger job. I suggest, respectfully, that you find a GOOD smith or friend that can help you on this one.
Yes, it is necessary to remove the stock.
O.K. - I'll go through a small amount -- you will find on the trigger assembly a pin that goes through an action protrusion and taking that out gives you the trigger assembly. DO NOT fool around with this - find a good smith - it's a matter of life and death to do a trigger.
Hope it works out well. Harry B.
 

cntryboy1289

New member
agree with Mete

I suggest that you replace it with a Bold Optima trigger which will give you a very good pull right out of the box. You might consider going to this site to learn more about working on your Mauser though:

http://www.surplusrifle.com/mauser98k/index.asp

They have video as well as written text on how to disassemble and reassemble the rifle and how to replace parts. Good luck with it.
 

Tom2

New member
Where are you starting?

Have you ever had it apart? Maybe there is old dried grease and gunk in the trigger mechanism that is not helping things. Old rifles get like that over the years. Maybe a good cleaning and lube will help. Or a little grease on the sear contact points will help somewhat. Or maybe you just got one that was at one extreme of the tolerances, made on a Monday morning. Aftermarket trigger is one option I guess, depending on what you want to spend. Would compare that to the cost of a smith stoning or adjusting things, if you want to keep it original. He might stone the sear contact point on the bolt or maybe even a lighter spring on the trigger, also.
 

Smokey Joe

New member
What you can do, and what you can't

Schmeisser--A good thorough cleaning is never a bad place to start, as Tom2 suggests. It certainly is cheaper than going out and buying retro parts right away! And you can easily take off the Mauser trigger assembly, there's no trick to it. Pay attention to what little thingies came from where, and you can get it back together again, clean and lubed, and mebbe that'll do the trick for you.

If you've never had your k98's stock off before, there's no time like the present for a little lesson on how a gun works inside. If you don't take the bolt apart there really isn't much at all to the internal workin's of a k98. (And not much more complexity in the bolt, but that is another chapter.)

After you have cleaned and lubed yr trigger, and put the whole thing back together again, take it out and shoot it and see if there is appreciable improvement. You might get a pleasant surprise.

Polishing trigger parts is something best left to a gunsmith IMHO. You will pay him to do it. But mebbe that will get you what you want in a trigger, so that'd be the next step.

If the military trigger is just too creepy for you (I don't much like 'em myself, BTW) an aftermarket trigger is just as easy to install as the original. On a Mauser, one pin to push out and it's on or off.

My preference is for the Timney, since I have one in my '03A3, my '17 Enfield, and my Mauser. They work very well for me. To keep things simple I used the Timney without the safety, so that the rifle's original safety is still what you use. You might need to use a dremel tool to relieve the stock around the replacement trigger mechanism, but if you don't do a neat job nobody will see it anyway when the rifle is reassembled, so that's not a big deal.

Hope you get the trigger action of your dreams, one way or t'other!
 

Schmeisser

New member
Thank you for your comments & suggestions. I've learnt to be very cautious when starting a new project. I appreciate your help.
 
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