8 Shot 357

[1972RedNeck]

Thinking about another 8 shot 357 mag. Have a 5" S&W 627. Love everything about it except the Hillary Hole.

Would like a 5 to 6 inch barrel again. The three option I have found are the:

S&W 627/327
Ruger Super GP100
Taurus 608

I really like the 6.5" barrel on the Taurus - just not sure about a Taurus.

Thoughts? I really like my 627, but I really hate the lock (even though I have it deleted and plugged). I really like my SRH and Security 6, but the double action just isn't as nice.

Kind of leaning towards the Taurus mainly for the longer barrel - how is the trigger? Are/can they be better than the Rugers'?

 

[jetinteriorguy]

Go to Tiggershims.com and give them a call. They’re very helpful in telling you how to determine what shims you need, and you can get the needed shims and springs in one kit. When I blew up my 627 and needed a replacement I wound up with a 4” GP100. I lightly polished the internals with Flitz and a soft Dremel wheel according to videos on YouTube. After polishing and replacing springs the GP is night and day different. In DA it rivals and surpasses all of my older Smiths, and in SA it rivals all but my 4” Model 57 no dash. I’d love to find a 4”-8 shot RH and give it the same treatment.

 

[Hellcat1]

If it's mostly the Hillary Hole that you don't like about your S&W, there's actually a "fix" for that: https://www.originalprecision.com/lock-delete-kit.html

In fact, that reminds me that I need to buy one and install it on my favorite S&W. People either love or hate these guns, but I love my TRR8 (8 shot):

Frank

 

[1972RedNeck]

The only thing I don't like about my Smith is the Hillary hole, even though I have it deleted and plugged.

 

[ds-10-speed]

Thinking about another 8 shot 357 mag. Have a 5" S&W 627. Love everything about it except the Hillary Hole.

Would like a 5 to 6 inch barrel again. The three option I have found are the:

S&W 627/327
Ruger Super GP100
Taurus 608

I really like the 6.5" barrel on the Taurus - just not sure about a Taurus.

Thoughts? I really like my 627, but I really hate the lock (even though I have it deleted and plugged). I really like my SRH and Security 6, but the double action just isn't as nice.

Kind of leaning towards the Taurus mainly for the longer barrel - how is the trigger? Are/can they be better than the Rugers'?

There are some 627's out there without the hole, like mine.

The hole doesn't bother me on my other revolvers and the plugs I have seen only look good at 10 feet or farther away.

 

[gnappi]

I'll be honest, I'll NOT buy a S&W with a lock if I can buy an earlier model without, AND pay more for it than a brand new one.

That said, I have both a 627 and 327 because the 327 was never made (AFAIK) without a lock and the 627 pre-lock is unobtainium. I'm not sorry I have them.

 

[jetinteriorguy]

I sure miss my 627, it was a great gun. I’m still waiting for one to appear in the for sale adds, they never seem to show up unless they’re 150 miles away from me.

 

[Nathan]

I'll be honest, I'll NOT buy a S&W with a lock if I can buy an earlier model without, AND pay more for it than a brand new one.

This is good advice. I have a few older S&W revolvers. All have great triggers, but just a bit heavy.

I have bought 2 post MIM examples this year. Triggers are much heavier and less smooth. Lighter springs fixed the first and the second is going to a gunsmith.

Honestly, I’m not asking for the world….10lb DA and 3.5 lb crisp SA with minimal overtravel wound be great! My 629-6 has slightly more than 13lb DA and 4.5lb SA pull from the factory. Fast DA fire is a joke! It is impossible. Cranking on that trigger throws rounds all over where my others drop them right on steel at 15 yds.

 

[44caliberkid]

I’m not a Taurus hater. Since the internals are classic S&W, all the companies that make tuning kits for Smith’s also make them for Taurus. The current quality for their big frame revolvers is very good. You might also consider the Raging Hunter in six inch. Taurus revolvers are within a few hundred dollars of a new Smith (with lock) but many hundreds less than an older Smith without the Hillary hole. If you follow the forums you’ve seen that even Smith or Colt send out some lemons these days. People used to complain about Smith quality back in the 80’s, but that’s what I’m buying now, at premium prices.

 

[CajunBass]

The Taurus revolvers I've owned have all been very good. I think some of the newer ones are sort of ugly, but that's an individual thing.

I just learned to ignore the lock on Smith and Wesson's and have been quite happy with my "lock guns", I've got three of them now, and have owned others. I know it's an emotional issue and I know I'm not going to change any minds, but I just thought I'd throw it out.

 

[1972RedNeck]

I just learned to ignore the lock on Smith and Wesson's and have been quite happy with my "lock guns", I've got three of them now, and have owned others. I know it's an emotional issue and I know I'm not going to change any minds, but I just thought I'd throw it out.

I have two (holes plugged), and am thinking about another X frame so I'm not completely opposed if there's no other options.

 

[Drm50]

I have a few S&W revolvers. I only keep P&R era or older and only blue guns. I get newer dash, Hillary hole and stainless all the time on trades. They go into trade pile. As average the fit and finish on most models nose dived after -4. The dash numbers are engineering changes that at one point signified improvements but morphed into cost cutting.
I have shot many of these S&Ws of all calibers and models. As far as function and accuracy these new models are fine. Like other dinosaurs I don’t like them either. As for the cheerleaders of synthetics, MIM, investment casting, bring down your old blue S&W and will give you a nice stainless or new model for them. I won’t even have you throw in
boot on the deal.

 

[wild cat mccane]

I would not go Taurus 608. You'll be sending it back to Taurus for binding eventually.

They used to be a lot cheaper than they are now, like 3 years ago. For fun, I would recommend the 608 if you were okay with it going back. At prices today? no.

Taurus has had a lock on their guns since forever too.

 

[wild cat mccane]

To answer your question, yes. Despite what you read, Taurus triggers are very similar to S&W. Very smooth and crisp. They are much better than a GP100. I can't say that's true of the Super GP100 though has I haven't shot one.

The down fall is the action is not good.

 

[Gunz]

I paid $400 for a Basically New Unfired 4-inch 608 Taurus. IT has been a very nice revolver. Smooth Double Action, crisp singleaction, POI=POA at 15 yards. No complaints. If one shoots competition, it may not hold up like a Smith. BUT, I do not. Justrecreational. Handles all the weights of 357 mag so far. I like my taurus 608.

 

[jetinteriorguy]

To answer your question, yes. Despite what you read, Taurus triggers are very similar to S&W. Very smooth and crisp. They are much better than a GP100. I can't say that's true of the Super GP100 though has I haven't shot one.

The down fall is the action is not good.

I’m curious what you mean by the action is not good and just exactly what is your direct experience with it? Please don’t take this the way it sounds, I really want to know since I’m interested in possibly getting one.

 

[wild cat mccane]

So I have owned 7 M66s across 15 years.

The 66 and the 608 are fundamentally the action copy of each other, just frame difference. All across time when forums talk about improved quality. Zero production differences that I could see in the 66s I've owned.

All 7 66s I've returned to Taurus for cylinder binding, either tight or on a particular chamber. Sometimes it has been binding when brand new, but all have gone on (again) to get the binding after shooting. Taurus, if I recall, returned with an entirely new crane or cut the extractor and replaced. A few came back with the extractor plunger area end cut off--really weird thing to do for a fix and to then include the old cut off piece in the box?

I'm a high volume shooter. I do not abuse the crane though at all. If anything, I baby them because I'm not a competition shooter that is speed shooting.

I think the 1911 forum has documented it better than me in pictures, though I would recommend my history, across all "new" CEOs on their flagship gun...the system is just going to break.

#2 documents quality issues. You hear "gunsmiths won't work on a taurus revolver, I think this is a good depiction of why:
https://www.1911forum.com/threads/s-w-and-taurus-44mag-comparison-w-pics.269633/

There is just something flawed about it.

I do feel the trigger on the 66 is almost equal to my 686s. So when I read that taurus have horrible triggers, I'm thinking it's a sample of one or bashing. On the action? I think I feel I have better than a lot of users' experience.

While I have always wanted the 66 to work because it's an attractive model and price (including one 669), I think there is something just bad about the design or execution. My 7th was my last. Bought in 2019.

Not once have I read the 608 is enhanced over the 66. Since they share the same action set up, the 608 can't improve on the 66 bc the problem of the 66 isn't frame related (ie, never read of a 66 destroying a frame).

 

[jetinteriorguy]

So I have owned 7 M66s across 15 years.

The 66 and the 608 are fundamentally the action copy of each other, just frame difference. All across time when forums talk about improved quality. Zero production differences that I could see in the 66s I've owned.

All 7 66s I've returned to Taurus for cylinder binding, either tight or on a particular chamber. Sometimes it has been binding when brand new, but all have gone on (again) to get the binding after shooting. Taurus, if I recall, returned with an entirely new crane or cut the extractor and replaced. A few came back with the extractor plunger area end cut off--really weird thing to do for a fix and to then include the old cut off piece in the box?

I'm a high volume shooter. I do not abuse the crane though at all. If anything, I baby them because I'm not a competition shooter that is speed shooting.

I think the 1911 forum has documented it better than me in pictures, though I would recommend my history, across all "new" CEOs on their flagship gun...the system is just going to break.

#2 documents quality issues. You hear "gunsmiths won't work on a taurus revolver, I think this is a good depiction of why:
https://www.1911forum.com/threads/s-w-and-taurus-44mag-comparison-w-pics.269633/

There is just something flawed about it.

I do feel the trigger on the 66 is almost equal to my 686s. So when I read that taurus have horrible triggers, I'm thinking it's a sample of one or bashing. On the action? I think I feel I have better than a lot of users' experience.

While I have always wanted the 66 to work because it's an attractive model and price (including one 669), I think there is something just bad about the design or execution. My 7th was my last. Bought in 2019.

Not once have I read the 608 is enhanced over the 66. Since they share the same action set up, the 608 can't improve on the 66 bc the problem of the 66 isn't frame related (ie, never read of a 66 destroying a frame).

Thanks, just what I was interested in hearing. Makes me wonder if there’s some kind of galling inside the action since it’s something that happens over time. Perhaps some improper heat treatment or metallurgy issues.

 

[wild cat mccane]

It's something wrong for sure.

That said, if the 608 was the $450 it was 3 years ago? For range toy? all the way. Taurus took a long time on 2 of my fixes, but the others were really fast.

Now that the 608 is about the price of a 686, 686 ever single time. No question at all.

It's just that Taurus 608 almost shouldn't ever be a consideration at the current pricing. You are the 1 in a million chance if you get binding issues with the R8 or 627. Plus the metal and ruggedness is clearly better on the S&W.

 

[jetinteriorguy]

I would snag another 627 in a heartbeat if I could find one. I sure miss the one I had. There is a Taurus for sale but it’s about a hundred miles from me and it’s a route where the traffic is the worst so that trip could take 3-4 hours one way. The price is $600.00 which is almost tempting but it’s a pass.