7.62x38R questions

C

Clark500

New member
I finally took the plunge and picked up an M1895 Nagant revolver. Now I just have to figure out how to feed the beast.

My first option is factory Prvi ammo. At $20 per box + shipping, that is my least favorite option. I realize factory ammo is not as spendy as it used to be, but it is still more than I’d like to pay. The up side is that I know the ammo will work.

My second option is to reload. While this would be the cheaper option, it also seems to be chock full of potential pitfalls. After reading as much as I could find on the internet, I am more confused than I was when I started. First, there is the lack of load data to contend with. If I can clear that hurdle, the “basic” reloading options seem to break down as follows. Unfortunately, basic doesn’t even begin to cover it. Every person describing the procedure seems to have a different method. I have read so many procedural variations within each option that my head started to spin.

1. Lee dies and 32-20 brass
a. Lee dies are around $25 – a plus
b. 32-20 brass seems to be non-existent – a negative
c. The rim on 32-20 brass is thicker than the rim on 7.62x38R brass and may interfere with cylinder rotation – a negative
d. I understand that you need to modify the seating die before it will function properly – a negative
2. RCBS dies and 7.62x38R brass
a. RCBS dies work with 7.62x38R brass (which I can get from loaded ammo) – a plus
b. RCBS dies with shellholder cost about $180 (twice the price of the gun) – a negative
c. Folks say that 7.62x38R brass splits and crushes easily – a negative
3. 30 carbine dies and 7.62x38R brass
a. I already have the dies – a plus
b. Works with 7.62x38R brass (I think – the details are a little sketchy) – a plus (maybe)
c. There are quite a few folks that claim to use 30 carbine dies, but I haven’t found any detailed info on the procedure – a negative

I would really like to try my hand at reloading this cartridge, but I’m not sure where to start. Can anybody untangle my brain and add a little clarity to this cesspool of information?
 
C

Clark500

New member
Well, I guess I could hang it. Or I could just throw it at the target. But that's not really what I had in mind. :rolleyes:
 
U

Unclenick

Staff
Lee catalogs dies for the 7.62×25 Tokarev online, but not for your 7.62×38R. That would be a custom die set for them, driving the price up to $34, unless you can buy one of a special order run someone else already had done. Either way, I think that's your best plan.

IIRC, the .30 carbine dies will size the case down on the outside, but once you get to bullet seating, you still need something to neck the case down over it.

The 7.62×38R has a case 1.510"-1.528" long, depending who you ask. The .32-20 case is only 1.318" long. So any conversion would be without the long crimped mouth. The rims could be thinned on a case trimmer, like the Wilson, if you don't have a lathe? A lot more work than just buying the commercial rounds, though. You might need to stress relieve the mouths of the commercial brass to keep it from splitting when you reload.

Sako makes the only .308 93 grain ball bullet I see. You may need to be casting the Lee 311-093-1R and sizing it down to .308 or .309. QuickLOAD thinks you'll be in the range of 2.4 grains of W231 or 2.3 grains of Bullseye. The 231 is easier to meter in these tiny charges. It might also be a good application for Trail Boss?
 
N

noelf2

New member
Just shoot some 32 S&W Long in it. $13.95 a box of 50 from AIM Surplus. Ruins the brass, but it beats reloading for it. I actually have a 32 S&W L revolver that I reload for. When the brass gets old, it's fodder for my Nagant.
 
B

ballardw

New member
Several places have offered 32 ACP cylinders for the Nagants. Might be something to consider unless you really want the funny brass.
 
E

estoy999

New member
I was able to successfully reload original 7.63x38R boxer brass.
I use Lee No. 6 shellholder and widen the hole with a dremel just enough
to enable the brassto enter. I use Lee 30M1 Carbide die without alterration. I used the Lee 30M1 Carbine powder thru Expender. I use the Lee 30M1 carbine seater - but I removed the seater rod and replaced it with a 3/8x1-1/2 bolt (1-3/4" overall length) - grinded the round head to enter the end cap - grinder a taper to the end to enable it to push bullet down the mouth of the brass - put a 3/8 nut leaving a protrusion of 1/2. I use a 22 Remington Jet Sizer for mouth crimping just enough to enable to bullet to rotate on revolver. Final wee bit resizer on 30M1 Die for easy insertion on the revolver. It works for me !!!
 
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