.38 spl. Crimp Question

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jag2

New member
I noticed that, if I follow the reloading guide suggestion for OAL then the crimp is short of the groove. I've done it both ways and honestly can't tell any difference. The 38 spcl is such a low pressure round I don't think it makes any difference safety or performance wise.
 
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NoSecondBest

New member
I don't use a taper crimp on the 38SPL. I use a roll crimp. Taper crimp is best used on auto loading cartridges such as my 9x21, 356TSW, 38Super. There's no advantage in using it on a rimmed case like the 38Spl.
 
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Jim Watson

New member
Like No... I roll crimp into the groove provided and take what OAL I get.

You can taper crimp about anywhere but I seldom do that for revolver ammo.
 
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ShootingNut

New member
If I'm not mistaken, I believe my Lee Classic Turret, using the Carbide Deluxe Crimp Die only taper crimps. So I think maybe it would be best to stay just out of the crimp grove?
SN
 
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howlnmad

New member
If its a modern die set for 38 spl, then you have a roll crimp die. You would have to buy a taper crimp die seperately for that caliber.
 
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ShootingNut

New member
I just now looked on Lee website, and see that they do offer a factory crimp die for revolvers, so it does look like that would give one a "roll crimp".
SN
 
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Don P

New member
I just now looked on Lee website, and see that they do offer a factory crimp die for revolvers, so it does look like that would give one a "roll crimp".
Click to expand...
Correct the seat/crimp die is a tapper crimp and the factory crimp die is the roll crimp
 
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WESHOOT2

New member
I use Redding Profile Crimp dies for all revolver cartridges; it sets a gentle taper, and when properly adjusted finishes with a symmetrical 'roll'.

Vary crimp and test.
 
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Nick_C_S

New member
I'm new to plated bullets for 38/357. I need to get a taper crimp die, but they're on backorder everywhere, it seems. In the mean time, just going with a light roll crimp. Seems to work just fine.
 
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mikld

New member
I would highly suggest you toss the Lee FCD and use a plain old roll crimp die. There is no advantage using an FCD on .38 Special reloads, and may even swage your cast bullets. Easy, and few headaches; with a 4-hole press seat and roll crimp in 2 steps (station 1, size/deprime. station 2 flare/prime. I charge off the press. station 3 seat. station 4, crimp)...
 
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howlnmad

New member
I don't understand why some think that they need a taper crimp for wheel gun cartridges. Unless you're using some off the wall bullet that has no canellure the general rule of thumb is roll the revolver and taper the auto feed. Seating dies are made the with appropriate crimp for the caliber. The only thing extra the LFC die does is post size the brass.
 
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g.willikers

New member
A lot of indoor ranges no longer allow lead bullets.
So plated ones must be used instead, which have no place to use a roll crimp.
As Nick_C_S sez, a very light roll crimp will usually do.
If the bullets are a little over sized, though, and/or the cases are belled too much, the loaded rounds might not fit the cylinder without a taper crimp.
Then a very light touch with the resizer die, with primer punch removed, can be used in a pinch.
 
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howlnmad

New member
With the plated bullets that Nick_C_S is talking about I would have to say either a very light roll crimp or in this case buy a special taper crimp die. I can't think of any plated bullets that have a canellure (maybe Rainier). Sorry to say that I only load plated for 9mm plinking loads, I always use premium in my 38 and 357 loads.
 
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ShootingNut

New member
When I run through my Lee Factory Crimp Die, I have it set to just take
the flare/bell off the mouth of the casing that made for a good bullet seating,
and just "snug" the brass to the lead bullet. Personally, I don't see anything wrong with doing this on my .38/.357 loads for my revolver. They shoot just fine for me. I'm not saying that others methods and choices are not good, this just has worked for me.
SN
 
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WESHOOT2

New member
When loading Rainier or Speer plated bullets in 38 Special, 357 , 41, and 44 Magnum, and when I had one 45 Colt, I crimp with the superior Redding Profile Crimp die.
 
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mikld

New member
A lot of indoor ranges no longer allow lead bullets.
So plated ones must be used instead, which have no place to use a roll crimp.
As Nick_C_S sez, a very light roll crimp will usually do.
If the bullets are a little over sized, though, and/or the cases are belled too much, the loaded rounds might not fit the cylinder without a taper crimp.
Then a very light touch with the resizer die, with primer punch removed, can be used in a pinch.
Click to expand...
Waaay before I ever shot a plated bullet, I shot a lot of jacketed bullets. I think they pass the "no lead" criteria. Some had a cannalure, some didn't. Plated bullets are relatively new (to the general public) and not a "must" if lead isn't allowed...

If my "range" doesn't allow shooting lead bullets, I'll go somewhere else, as 99.9% of my handgun shooting is lead. I understand why lead would be banned, but I don't hafta agree and support that decision...
 
R

Real Gun

New member
The problem with roll crimp on a lead bullet is that the die sets are not designed for that slightly larger diameter. By the time you stuff a soft bullet into an undersized case and then crimp firmly enough to achieve a noticeable roll crimp, you stand a good chance of swaging the bullet and experiencing leading.

I gather the workaround is not to crimp to the point of the roll, just straighten the flare and stop. The neck tension will be way more than for jacketed bullets .001 smaller, so I wouldn't expect the bullet to move under recoil. You have to push on the bullet, preferably a setup dummy round, and see what it takes to move the bullet farther into the case, if at all.
 
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