Hi I am new to reloading. Does anyone have experience with reloading 357 magnum for a Rossi lever action rifle? I am looking for some advice with the type of bullets work best. For example, Flat nose, round nose, lead bullets. FMJ, SPJ,HPJ. Weight of bullets 125,158? 180? Berry bullets, Barnes bullets? I am looking for advice from experienced reloaders to steer me in the right direction. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks
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357 Rossi 92 lever action
- Thread starter TGR
- Start date
AlaskaMike
New member
I've had great success with loading for my Rossi 92. While I have yet to find a bullet profile that won't feed, either in .38 special or .357 mag, I know that others have had problems with some profiles in their rifles. The one that always seems to work though, is the round nose flat point style, so I'd probably recommend you start there.
I would recommend you avoid plated bullets though, for a couple of reasons. One is that they don't typically have a crimp groove. In a tube magazine with a lever action rifle, you want a good roll crimp to avoid recoil setting bullets deeper in the case. Another reason is that above the design velocity, the plating tends to flake off, and your accuracy goes in the toilet. Some plated bullets do better with others in this area, depending on the thickness of the plating. I've never had very good luck with plated bullets either in revolvers or my carbines though.
For bullet weights, I've had great luck with pretty much any bullet weight with my 92. I have molds for 125 and 150 grain SWCs, and also a 170 grain RNFP. They all shoot wonderfully in my gun. I would probably recommend you talk to different cast bullet companies, since several will send you small samples for free or cheap, and you can see which ones your rifle likes best. Matt's Bullets, and Montana Bullet Works are two that I've ordered from and both offer some great bullet designs.
Hope that helps, and good luck!
I would recommend you avoid plated bullets though, for a couple of reasons. One is that they don't typically have a crimp groove. In a tube magazine with a lever action rifle, you want a good roll crimp to avoid recoil setting bullets deeper in the case. Another reason is that above the design velocity, the plating tends to flake off, and your accuracy goes in the toilet. Some plated bullets do better with others in this area, depending on the thickness of the plating. I've never had very good luck with plated bullets either in revolvers or my carbines though.
For bullet weights, I've had great luck with pretty much any bullet weight with my 92. I have molds for 125 and 150 grain SWCs, and also a 170 grain RNFP. They all shoot wonderfully in my gun. I would probably recommend you talk to different cast bullet companies, since several will send you small samples for free or cheap, and you can see which ones your rifle likes best. Matt's Bullets, and Montana Bullet Works are two that I've ordered from and both offer some great bullet designs.
Hope that helps, and good luck!
I am headed down the same path as you and in the process of gathering reloading supplies. The only thing I would add is to stay away from a true round nose or pointed bullet profile as in a tube magazine there would be a chance of recoil causing the bullet to strike the primer in front of it.
There are some pointed bullet profiles with the tip being a polymer, such as the Hornady FTX, that are safe to use in a tubular magazine.
There are some pointed bullet profiles with the tip being a polymer, such as the Hornady FTX, that are safe to use in a tubular magazine.
Tell us is if you want a plinking or hunting load and what powders and primers you have on hand? If I were to recommend 1 brand of bullet that should produce good results it would be the Hornady XTP series. I would suggest you try 125, 140 and 158 grain XTP bullets with H110 and Unique to see which weight bullets and speed range produce the most useful loads for your intended uses. If you want some cheaper plinking loads, try some cast 158 gr Round Nose Flat Point bullets over Unique loaded to between 1100 and 1350fps. Nossler, Sierra and Speer all make good 357 jacketed bullets too, but figuring out which is "best" can drain your wallet. I suggest you just worry most about finding a "good combination" of bullet weight and speed and stick with it.
Two ideas. I have had success with a variety of bullet shapes and weights one the last couple of decades. For the last few years, I have favored the 140 grain Leverevolution.
A problem that I ran into when I was loading hot...max all the time....was case seperation. That springy action and older brass led to some stuck cases. The solution was obvious....monitor the cases more carefully and back off the load.
A problem that I ran into when I was loading hot...max all the time....was case seperation. That springy action and older brass led to some stuck cases. The solution was obvious....monitor the cases more carefully and back off the load.
jetinteriorguy
New member
I use round nose flat point, semi wadcutters, and truncated cone bullets in my Henry with no issues. As far as copper plated bullets I’ve used a lot and did have some issues over driving them in my Henry and had lots of fun getting the copper out of the last 5-6” of the bore, but once I loaded them properly no more issues keeping them at under 1200 fps as recommended. I may be mistaken but if I recall correctly the bullets I order from X-treme do have a cannelure. I use a Lee Collet Crimp die and can do a pretty good crimp without cutting through the copper plating like a heavy roll crimp can do. I pretty much only use 158gr bullets but do have some 125’s loaded light for plinking that do well out to 50yds.
jetinteriorguy
New member
Just out of curiosity, are you trimming the brass shorter to match the shorter brass the factory Leverrevolution uses?Two ideas. I have had success with a variety of bullet shapes and weights one the last couple of decades. For the last few years, I have favored the 140 grain Leverevolution.
A problem that I ran into when I was loading hot...max all the time....was case seperation. That springy action and older brass led to some stuck cases. The solution was obvious....monitor the cases more carefully and back off the load.
Hey guys thanks for all the positive feedback. It is much appreciated. I am looking to reload rounds just for Plinking/Target shooting without breaking the bank. I am reading all the feedback and as reloading supplies go on sale. I will try the different loads out. At least now I have somewhere to start.
My preference is for polymer coated 158 grain SWC. Cuts a nice clean hole thru target paper.Hi I am looking for some advice with the type of bullets work best. For example, Flat nose, round nose, lead bullets. FMJ, SPJ,HPJ. Weight of bullets 125,158? 180?
If there is a difference in price between FP and HP and you are only plinking (causal shooting at paper or other targets where expansion is not needed or useful, then I'd use the cheaper bullet.
However, I don't shoot plated bullets, I shoot lead, or I shoot jacketed. If you've got a use for them, and don't mind putting up with the restrictions and the additional quirks for loading that plated bullets require, use them. I don't.
However, I don't shoot plated bullets, I shoot lead, or I shoot jacketed. If you've got a use for them, and don't mind putting up with the restrictions and the additional quirks for loading that plated bullets require, use them. I don't.
jetinteriorguy
New member
I prefer in this order, round nose flat point, truncated cone, and semi wadcutter. This is based on both reliable feeding and accuracy. I have used the type of hollow point plated bullets that are made for accuracy not expansion but haven’t noticed enough improvement to warrant the extra expense. I do have some pretty hot hunting loads using 158gr and 180gr Hornady XTP’s but they don’t always feed as smooth as I’d like but do work good enough for their purpose. Now this is through my Henry Big Boy Steel, so things may differ in your rifle.
Crunchy Frog
New member
Truncated cone flat point is my favorite followed by round nose flat point. Some ‘92s seem to prefer a longer cartridge which means either a .357 case or a .38 Special case loaded a bit long. Rifles differ.
jetinteriorguy
New member
Ok, apparently I’m full of it. I could have sworn I had this issue with my .41 mag brass but just checked and they are full length. It’s been a long time since I shot it and could have sworn I read something to this effect. My apologies, carry on. They say the memory is the second thing to go, I can’t remember what the first thing was.About trimming....No, I do not trim cases to match Factory Leverevolution length. Frankly, I did not know that there was a difference.
stagpanther
New member
Actually you are not off base jetinterior--the leverevolution ammo uses FTX bullets which typically require a shorter case length to accomodate seating the bullet properly in many cartridges that use them, especially pistol cartridges.
jetinteriorguy
New member
Ah, good to know I’m not totally losing my mind.Actually you are not off base jetinterior--the leverevolution ammo uses FTX bullets which typically require a shorter case length to accomodate seating the bullet properly in many cartridges that use them, especially pistol cartridges.