.270 Winchester, Norma brass.

H

hooligan1

New member
I managed to pick up some new brass, and was wondering if anybody else here has converted any to 7 Mauser.
T. Ohearme doesnt need to reply, based off his re ord for not knowing that small things do matter.

I have used 50 pieces to convert so far, but havent shot any yet.
 
Last edited:
L

ligonierbill

New member
No experience converting 270, but I just loaded 50 7x57 using once fired Norma brass. The necks are outrageously tight! A pain to pull over the sizing mandrel, even with some mica, and trimming requires a secondary grip on the case to keep it from spinning. It was all that Midway had when I started loading this round, but I found some cheap PRVI brass at Powder Valley this afternoon.

Why are you converting?
 
R

reynolds357

New member
ligonierbill said:
No experience converting 270, but I just loaded 50 7x57 using once fired Norma brass. The necks are outrageously tight! A pain to pull over the sizing mandrel, even with some mica, and trimming requires a secondary grip on the case to keep it from spinning. It was all that Midway had when I started loading this round, but I found some cheap PRVI brass at Powder Valley this afternoon.

Why are you converting?
Click to expand...
Norma brass is top shelf. Its about all I use. If its too thick, inside ream it or outside turn it. Prvi is decent, but their 7x57 has s lot of rim thickness inconsistencies.
 
H

hooligan1

New member
ligonierbill, building up my reserves, firstly.
I like being able to see what can be done in converting.
I could probably find 7 mauser brass, but I got such a great buy on this brass, and decided to test it.
 
L

ligonierbill

New member
Rants aside, I agree Norma makes good brass. FWIW I go Lapua if I want to treat myself. But now I'm intrigued by this conversion. The 270 case is a lot longer, and more important, the shoulder is a good 5mm ahead of the 7 Mauser's. Looks hard to me. Tell us more about your process hooligan.
 
H

hooligan1

New member
Well I started by annealing into the shoulder of the. 270 case, then with a drill mounted in a vice with a cutoff wheel attached, I cut right at a quarter inch, give or take a sixteenth, off the neck.
I then took a Lyman vld style neck camfering tool and cleaned the inside of that cut up just a tad,.
I lubricated the neck with a qtip and case lube, and went to the trimmer and squared the neck, and then deburred, lubed, and sent it into my 7 mauser sizing die, sometimes it took a couple strokes to get shoulder length I wanted.
But basically thats all it took before I took all of those 50 over and reset my trimmer, trimmed to length, camfered and deburred then primed.
 
R

RC20

New member
If I can get brass made by someone I have no desire to roll my own. All my calibers are standard and available (well the 7.5 Swiss not so much but plenty of PPU to be had, I would now own any 7.5 if I had to make it)

Entertainment for some and a ??????? for others.

If it floats your boat that is nice, but not sure why you would think it odd that others would just buy the stuff.
 
R

reynolds357

New member
RC20 said:
If I can get brass made by someone I have no desire to roll my own. All my calibers are standard and available (well the 7.5 Swiss not so much but plenty of PPU to be had, I would now own any 7.5 if I had to make it)

Entertainment for some and a ??????? for others.

If it floats your boat that is nice, but not sure why you would think it odd that others would just buy the stuff.
Click to expand...
The same question could be asked about reloading in general.
 
H

hooligan1

New member
Hey 603country, if you purchase new Norma brass do you feel compelled to run it through the sizer before you load it
 
6

603Country

New member
hooligan, I usually don’t run them through a die prior to loading em up. I do trim the cases and Bevel and chamfer the case mouth.
 
H

hooligan1

New member
I loaded 15 in a 5 rnd data test, looking for accuracy and a 150 ABLR, paired with Magpro and CCI 250 primers.
So far loading the new brass has been cool, no neck deformities in any of those cases.
 
R

reynolds357

New member
hooligan1 said:
I loaded 15 in a 5 rnd data test, looking for accuracy and a 150 ABLR, paired with Magpro and CCI 250 primers.
So far loading the new brass has been cool, no neck deformities in any of those cases.
Click to expand...
Mine all seem to come with about 20% of the necks dented. If I tried to put a flat base bullet in them, I would crush them. To be clear, that is my experience with all brands, not just Norma. I think the "box man" plays football with the packages.
 
H

hooligan1

New member
reynolds357, Ive been looking at the brass, some are dented but mostly nice.
It held up decent to my test, some loads grouped better than others of course, but overall real happy with outcome, on both .270 and the 7 mauser.
 
P

Paul B.

New member
"I loaded 15 in a 5 rnd data test, looking for accuracy and a 150 ABLR, paired with Magpro and CCI 250 primers.
So far loading the new brass has been cool, no neck deformities in any of those cases."

So what were your results with the ABLR. I've been trying to get that bullet to work in three different 7x57s and the results are just patterns. What powder were you using. I've been working with Rl17 which has been very good with the Nosler Partitions but so far it seems the ABLR no likee. :confused::(
Paul B.
 
S

sako2

New member
Hooligan and Paul when I was working up a load with the 190gn ablr for my 300. I was told by a nosler tech to get within .050 of the lands.
 
U

Unclenick

Staff
Sako2,

That 0.05 number is probably correct for their load data pressures with that bullet. Accuracy can be something else that requires somewhat different load data. That's one thing Berger found for its secant ogive VLD bullets is that there isn't any one right amount of bullet jump that is optimal for accuracy. It varies by the gun, so you have to try it out.

Looking at this bullet, it is quite long. It appears to be designed to have a stability factor of 1.5 shooting at typical 150 grain 270 Win velocities in a standard atmosphere with the 10" twist. However, I notice from the cutaway image at Nosler's site that the copper is thick at the rear and the lead is forward. This will move the center of gravity forward which will make the bullet sensitive to in-bore bullet tilt. For that reason, I would expect it to be more important to eliminate cartridge runout than it is for the average bullet.

Paul B.,

Which of the three 7 mm ABLR's are you trying to shoot and at what velocity and in what weather conditions?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top