Does anybody know what S&W models are using the 2-Piece barrels ? I'm thinking of getting a Model 29-10 w 4" barrel at a very reasonable price but would like to know differences compared to my model 29-2 ! I know about the lock and use of mim parts but what else ? I'm not saying newer or different technology is a bad thing just like to know more about what your getting ! Thanks !
2-Piece barrels used by S&W info ?
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carguychris
New member
Asides from the Model 620 and the Model "66 Redux", IIRC S&W has also "two-pieced" the Model 67 (K frame .38Spl), the new Model 69 (L frame 5-shot .44Mag), and various scandium-alloy-frame "Night Guard", "AirLite", "AirLite PD", "Sc/S", and "M&P" models.
DPris, S&W has "two-pieced" various scandium-frame .44's- namely the Model 329PD. However, other than the new M69, I'm not aware of another steel-frame S&W .44 with a 2-piece barrel. AFAIK no Model 29's or 629's have one.
DPris, S&W has "two-pieced" various scandium-frame .44's- namely the Model 329PD. However, other than the new M69, I'm not aware of another steel-frame S&W .44 with a 2-piece barrel. AFAIK no Model 29's or 629's have one.
Two-piece barrels are actually three pieces. Dan Wesson invented this system, I think. Here's how it works:
The "core" barrel is the part that has actual rifling. It is screwed into the frame to the right depth hand-tight. The outer sleeve (the visible exterior part) is then compressed backwards towards the frame by a nut at the muzzle end. This nut screws onto threads on the core barrel, "stretching" the barrel forward.
In a conventional one-piece barrel the barrel is screwed in tight to the frame which can create a "compression ring" at the inside of the barrel where it screws into the frame. This "tight spot" has a negative effect on accuracy. A multi-part "stretched" barrel avoids this issue and there is an increase in average accuracy.
When I re-barreled my Ruger NewVaq as a true .355" 9mm I used a multi-part barrel. I made the barrel compression nut myself, externally threaded the core barrel on both ends and used a section of solid stainless steel handlebar from a 1982 Honda CB900c as the external sleeve! Works great, and is likely one of the few Rugers in service with a multi-part barrel. (In my case the barrel nut is the base for a combination gas trap and front sight mount that goes over the barrel nut. The gas trap is used to tap muzzle gas for the automatic shell ejector which in turn allowed a magazine feed mod
.)
http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=511297
The "core" barrel is the part that has actual rifling. It is screwed into the frame to the right depth hand-tight. The outer sleeve (the visible exterior part) is then compressed backwards towards the frame by a nut at the muzzle end. This nut screws onto threads on the core barrel, "stretching" the barrel forward.
In a conventional one-piece barrel the barrel is screwed in tight to the frame which can create a "compression ring" at the inside of the barrel where it screws into the frame. This "tight spot" has a negative effect on accuracy. A multi-part "stretched" barrel avoids this issue and there is an increase in average accuracy.
When I re-barreled my Ruger NewVaq as a true .355" 9mm I used a multi-part barrel. I made the barrel compression nut myself, externally threaded the core barrel on both ends and used a section of solid stainless steel handlebar from a 1982 Honda CB900c as the external sleeve! Works great, and is likely one of the few Rugers in service with a multi-part barrel. (In my case the barrel nut is the base for a combination gas trap and front sight mount that goes over the barrel nut. The gas trap is used to tap muzzle gas for the automatic shell ejector which in turn allowed a magazine feed mod
.)http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=511297
Jim March said:
Here's my understanding: There are 2 pieces. The outer shroud is put in place, then the inner barrel screwed into the frame. The muzzle end of the barrel isn't threaded and doesn't use a nut. Instead, the muzzle end of the barrel forms a "T" or ring that covers the muzzle end of the shroud. When fully screwed in, the shroud is compressed. The barrel is tightened by inserting a tight-fitting mandrel into the barrel which engages the rifling. That's why removal of the barrel is a factory-only deal.
jglsprings
New member
So, how in all of this new engineering did we do away with the cut flat on the forcing cone of the "New" model 66? That was more a function of the clearance of the crane and the forcing cone. Yes?
jglsprings
New member
Well Tom, that is what I was wondering about. Then BillCA in CA (Unfortunately) went on to say, in a discussion about his Model 66-7 (with a two piece barrel)...
See the complete post here...
http://thefiringline.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5734849&postcount=37
So I'm trying to determine, without a new two piece barrel gun in front of me, is does the new barrel design eliminate the cut flat on the forcing cone or not?
I'm just going to have track down one of the new guns and find out. I'll report back sometime in the future.