Don,
In general, rust on different grades of stainless is initiated by oxidation of microscopic bits of free iron at the surface. The way that is handled with stainless screws and other items that will be used where rust is not acceptable is to have the stainless steel passivated. That usually means the free iron is removed by nitric acid etching, however, a safer and more environmentally friendly approach using 10% citric acid solution has become more common and can be done at home. Both methods are described in very satisfactory detail,
here.
Citric acid is available from wine making suppliers, though they often want to sell you a couple ounces for several dollars, so it may be cheaper to get it by the pound from either a chemical supply house or through your local drug store. I've been meaning to try adding a drop of Dawn in a gallon of solution acts as a wetting agent, but thus far have been passivating in my heated ultrasonic cleaner and letting it deal with penetration.
The use of heated lye solution for degreasing and neutralizing is cheapest for a big operation, but can be replaced more safely with a warm bath in a water-based high alkaline cleaner like Greased Lightning or or Formula 409 mixed to normal sprayer strength. LPS makes a good one, too. I've been using them for years to post-treat Parkerizing and cold bluing to neutralize the acid and prevent after-rust. They are good wetting agents, so they penetrate well. It's just more costly for a big shop to use than lye.
But, choose your poison and have fun experimenting with it.