1911, Lead in top of chamber

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Cascade1911

New member
I'm shooting 230 gr Meister LRN bullets. I get very little leading in the barrel but I get a lot of lead build up at the top of the chamber, enough that after 200 rounds or so I start to get failure to go into battery problems.

I believe the problem is caused when the bullet is feeding into the chamber it contacts the chamber top and leaves some lead behind.

Has anyone else had this issue and what can be done to eliminate it? Two thoughts I have but haven't tried yet is to shorten cartridge overall length (currently using 1.245") and try different magazines (using Chip McCormick mags for the most part).

Suggestions?
 
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Cascade1911

New member
And use what? I would prefer a solution other than switching to plated or jacketed. I recently bought 1000 230 lrn from Missouri but haven't loaded any of them yet. While make, hardness, size will affect leading in the barrel I don't hold much hope that it will make much difference in the chamber. I could be wrong of course and I guess I'll find out when I start loading the Missouri's.
 
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Skadoosh

New member
What brand of 1911 are you using? It sounds like your barrel ramp is causing the cartridge to enter the chamber at a very steep angle causing the nose of the bullet to ride and scrape along the top of your chamber as it seats.

You may have to switch to plated / jacketed bullets...
 
K

Kayser

New member
Try alternating plated/jacketed bullets with the lead every few magazines. Colloquial wisdom says this is a reasonable way to reduce leading in the barrel itself, so maybe it'll work for the chamber.
 
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m&p45acp10+1

New member
A spray bottle of M-Pro7 and a brush will cure the problem. Spray a dab in, and brush it out, follow with a couple of patches. You do not have to make the gun squeaky clean, just clean out the chamber. You do not even have to take the gun apart, just brush it while it locked open, then patch it dry. Takes maybe two minutes tops.

Personaly I use 200 grain SWC though some 1911 platform guns can be finicky about feeding them properly.
 
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Cascade1911

New member
Are you saying the M-Pro 7 will condition the chamber so the lead will not adhere? (going by some quick net search info...). Worth a try for sure. Anyone else have experience with M-Pro 7?
 
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Jeff22

New member
Soaking the barrel overnight in a mix of Kroil penetrating oil and Shooter's Choice solvent might loosen up the leading enough that you can remove it with a bore brush.

Back when I used to shoot lead reloads a lot I'd almost always finish the practice session with a few magazines or cylinders full of full metal jacketed bullets, with the theory that the FMJ helped clean lead out of the rifling.

You may find switching to harder cast lead bullets will solve your problem.
 
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dabluesguy

New member
My friends Springfield Mil-spec did the same thing. We both shoot the same handloads, from the same press using the same Missouri Bullseye cast bullets (the best, by the way). I checked my 1911 and it was starting to do the same thing. It didn't affect the function of the gun but we used some good solvent, a lead removing cloth and even a Choreboy. After that we just shoot a few jacketed bullets at the end of each session and that cut the problem down a bunch. If you shoot a lot of cast bullets you will probably get some leading on whatever gun you shoot. Just keep an eye on it and clean it good.
 
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Edward429451

Moderator
Part of the reason bullets are jacketed is to keep the lead within from building up in the bore.
Click to expand...

True that, but careful boolit type and size consideration will yield a lead boolit combo for your gun that will put jacketed performance in your gun without the high cost jacket and with minimal to no leading left in the bore.

Trying the first lead boolit in a gun and having a problem with leading doesn't mean that lead boolits are bad, just that you need to try a larger size, or perhaps different lube. It's worth it to wade through a couple different boolits or sizers to find a boolit/size that your gun likes.

Then you will have your jacketed performance that you desire, but at a penny or two apiece instead of 20 or 30 cents or more for the jacketed.

A couple nights ago I loaded some 500 S&W for the first time. A box of 50 350 grain Hornady XTP bullets were 38 bucks! Thats 76 cents apiece!.

When they finish getting rid of the wheel weights the copper bullets are going to get even more expensive. I've been shooting lead in my 45 for a long time with no problems. Your problem still sounds like OAL but you should not give up on finding a lead load that works to your satisfaction.
 
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Cascade1911

New member
OK, so what COAL do you all use for 230 grain LRN? (No, I'm not ready to give up on lead....)

((Starting to get to be more of a handload forum question...)
 
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drail

Moderator
Look closely at the finish (or lack of) in the chamber. Everytime I have seen what you are describing it was caused by someone using dead soft lead bullets or a very rough chamber (or both). I usually cleaned the chambers up with some 600 grit wrapped around a dowel and finished with 1200 grit (but you don't really need to go that fine). Once a little lead gets stuck on the chamber walls it will cause more lead buildup as the bullet tries to slide past. Chambers don't need to be "polished bright" but they do need to be fairly smooth. Also look at the small chamfer at the top of the entrance to the chamber. Some times they will have burrs hanging off of them or almost no chamfer at all. When a round comes off of the feed ramp (it actually bounces off) the nose of the bullet has to clear that chamfer and strikes the roof of the chamber and is straightened out and then goes in. Any resistance to that motion will cause problems. And as other suggested try a different O.A.L. All of my Springfields have liked 1.250 to 1.260 O.A.L. Every gun has its favorite and there can be quite a bit of variation between guns. Also check your extractor's tension and the finish on the inside of the hook. Sometimes they're pretty roughly machined.
 
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