1911 Interchangeability

[LordTio3]

Before I decide between the Springfield Mil-Spec and the RIA Commander as starting guns for my project 1911, I'd like to ask a question that I'm having a hard time answering on my own.

How interchangeable are factory 1911 parts from other companies? Now I know magazines and grips are pretty standard, but what about triggers, connectors, sights, grip safeties, slide releases, thumb safeties, and magazine releases?

Can I assume I'll be able to buy my base weapon and, provided it's made to specifications, just drop in individual parts with minimal fitting? I'm pretty handy, but I'm wondering if I'll have to make good friends with my gunsmith before this happens.

Thanks all,
~LT

 

[Andrewh]

sadly it will depend.
triggers, connectors, sights, grip safeties, slide releases, thumb safeties

this all require some fitting period.

some because of frame spec, some because of interaction with other parts.

you probably will not find a good shooting 1911 that you can drop any of these parts into and still have it work correctly.

either gun you mention should be fine, but be aware of a couple of things.
the mil-spec is a full size. the RIA commander is really a 4inch gun with a bull barrel.
RIA is a cast frame, which really doesn't mean much, but to some people it is important.

IF you meant the champion mil spec from ria, then it too is actually a 4 inch bull barrel instead of a bushing setup.

 

[James K]

GI guns made to government specs had parts that were almost totally interchangeable regardless of maker and era.

Today, many clone makers consider specs a joke, even within their own product lines, so fitting to a greater or less extent is often necessary and in a few cases parts have actually been unsafe, like a manual safety that did not prevent the hammer from falling even when engaged.

Jim

 

[VHinch]

GI guns made to government specs had parts that were almost totally interchangeable regardless of maker and era.

Today, many clone makers consider specs a joke, even within their own product lines, so fitting to a greater or less extent is often necessary and in a few cases parts have actually been unsafe, like a manual safety that did not prevent the hammer from falling even when engaged.

Spot on explanation as usual. As an extension of his point because of the widely varying specs by manufacturers, aftermarket parts are sized to account for these differences. Parts marketed as "drop in" are designed to be at the loose end of the applicable tolerance so as to fit most 1911s. The result is usually a ridiculously loose fit. The other end of the scale is parts designed to be fit correctly, which are oversized to give sufficient additional material to be able to be fit to most 1911's.

what about triggers

There are drop ins, but you'll be unhappy with the fit. Triggers are fairly simple though if you take your time.

connectors

Do you mean the disconnect?

sights

Simple swap but there are a multitude of different dovetail cuts, so you'll need to buy sights with the correct cut for your slide.

grip safeties

There are drop in beavertails, but they usually leave a gap you could throw a screaming cat through, and even on the drop ins the arm still has to be fit correctly to the trigger for proper operation of the safety.

slide releases

Usually a simple swap, though some tweaking may be required

thumb safeties

No. The thumb safety blocks the sear, and must be fit correctly or you'll have an unsafe weapon on your hands.

and magazine releases?

Usually a simple swap. They can require some fitting though.

I'm wondering if I'll have to make good friends with my gunsmith before this happens.

All the parts you mentioned can be done on your own. I'd suggest a thorough reading of Kuhnhausen's Shop Manual Vol.1 and Vol.2, and there are many instructional resources available online as well. Take your time, think everything through before touching a file to metal, and remember that metal is much easier to take off than put back on.

 

[Casimer]

FWIW the SA Mil-Specs seem to have a good reputation for being true to spec, and mine has never presented any problems accepting parts. VHinch's post gives a good run down of what's involved.

 

[AZAK]

I'd suggest a thorough reading of Kuhnhausen's

...

Very good suggestion.

There is a reason that the more accurate and well fitted 1911s are a bit on the pricey side: time. One is paying for the time that a good smith has put in to gaining the experience to do the work "right" and the time it takes to build a fine 1911. Yes, quality materials also add to the price. But it is the melding of the parts into the whole that really counts.

That said, in a perfect world you should be able to "put together" a 1911 with "drop in" parts. As noted above, there is a reason that they are "drop in".

Working on a 1911 is quite a bit different than working on a Glock; not a whole lot of hand fitting required on a Glock, truly more of a "plug and play".

Really depends on why you are doing this, and what you are hoping for as a result. People talking about "tuning" a 1911; extractor for example.

Oftentimes, concerning the 1911, the better the "tuning"/hand fit the better the result.

Great place to start truly understanding the 1911, one word, Kuhnhausen.

 

[LordTio3]

Aaaand THAT'S why I come here. Thanks you guys for all of the suggestions and recommendations. I'll definitely be picking up a manual from Kuhnhausen.

I'm taking on this project for a few reasons:
1. I want a 1911 that fits me perfectly in function, feel, and appearance.
2. I'm handy and want a project.
3. I enjoy the 1911 design and want to learn it inside and out without spending $1000 to do it.

I guess I get to join the club of people who are upset by the lack of a specification standard. That's kind of irritating.

~LT

 

[Eagle0711]

The simple answer is yes, much of the time.

 

[dcody40]

sure you can, just go slow and carefull

I learned it this way also, and if you follow my simple steps here, you can learn allot and have fun at the same time. I think I have typed this same thing before.
do one part and function at at time, test it to insure it's working correctly.
always file/stone/sand the part, cheapest item, if you goof, it's not a tolal mess, just replace the part.
test function everything at each step, the typical function check is testing the various safeties, if one fails, then back up and figure out why.
I have had good luck with both types of parts, drop in and some fitting required, some hammer/sear kits have really impressed me, gave a real nice trigger pull with no slop. Trigger bows can be peened on the edge to with a small punch to widen the bow, then start stoning them down a bit at a time, completly clean the bow and try the fit in the trigger bow channels. You want to get rid of the wobble, and have a smooth movement. this is just one example of what you can do. Grip safety, you may have to file a tiny bit for a good clearance fit to the trigger bow, that's what this does, block the trigger bow from moving backwards. Thumb safety, best if oversized, you just take a very small bit off the working end, as if it's a good oversized part it will be real hard to move up against the sear, this puppy blocks the sear from coming off the hammer notches, your trigger bow rear pushes the disconnector up and trips the sear. Are you lost yet, hope not, get the book and go slow and easy to learn the relationship between all the parts. You will know if you got it right and be real proud of your first one. It's almost like having your first baby. Ha!..but not so painfull, ask your wife !.

Enjoy

Duane USN/ret