1911 for under 1K
- Thread starter GojuBrian
- Start date
para ssp
i purchased my para ssp 2007 in 2008 NIB for 600.00 with 200 rds of 45 acp.
still is an awesome 1911.
absolutely flawless.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2001/2257493502_96eb521f5c.jpg
i purchased my para ssp 2007 in 2008 NIB for 600.00 with 200 rds of 45 acp.
still is an awesome 1911.
absolutely flawless.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2001/2257493502_96eb521f5c.jpg
More money for a 1911 generally (very generally) means three things:
1) Better materials quality. Forgings instead of castings; machined small parts instead of MIM; that sort of thing.
2) Better cosmetic fit and finish. Flats are flat instead of wavy; rounds are smooth and evenly radiused; checkering and serrations are even and not full of straggly overruns.
3) Better mechanical fit and finish. "Fit and Finish" isn't just cosmetic froofery; the slide should travel smoothly along the rails without either excessive play or binding; lockup should be consistent with no sign of battering on lugs or barrel feet.
In short, though, if one can't tell the difference between a Rock Island and a Rock River, it's probably safe to get the Rock Island.
1) Better materials quality. Forgings instead of castings; machined small parts instead of MIM; that sort of thing.
2) Better cosmetic fit and finish. Flats are flat instead of wavy; rounds are smooth and evenly radiused; checkering and serrations are even and not full of straggly overruns.
3) Better mechanical fit and finish. "Fit and Finish" isn't just cosmetic froofery; the slide should travel smoothly along the rails without either excessive play or binding; lockup should be consistent with no sign of battering on lugs or barrel feet.
In short, though, if one can't tell the difference between a Rock Island and a Rock River, it's probably safe to get the Rock Island.
New Dan Wesson
I just picked up a DW CBOB .45. Fit and finish are beautiful. It's my first "match" grade 1911, and the first 1911 I've ever used that requires a bushing wrench for disassembly and reassembly.
So far, I've put about 300 rounds through it, without a single FTE/FTF/FTRB. As tight as it is, it doesn't bind. I've shot reliable 1911's before, and I've shot tight 1911's before, but this is the first one I've shot that is both reliable and tight.
These sell new in my area for just over $1k, and are worth every penny (in fact, with so many parts being Ed Brown, it would cost more to build one from parts than it costs to buy the assembled pistol).
I just picked up a DW CBOB .45. Fit and finish are beautiful. It's my first "match" grade 1911, and the first 1911 I've ever used that requires a bushing wrench for disassembly and reassembly.
So far, I've put about 300 rounds through it, without a single FTE/FTF/FTRB. As tight as it is, it doesn't bind. I've shot reliable 1911's before, and I've shot tight 1911's before, but this is the first one I've shot that is both reliable and tight.
These sell new in my area for just over $1k, and are worth every penny (in fact, with so many parts being Ed Brown, it would cost more to build one from parts than it costs to buy the assembled pistol).
hdawson228
New member
Consider the Springfield 1911 Milspec. Excellent piece and a lifetime warranty also great customer service if every needed.
yrralguthrie
New member
1911's
The difference between the various 1911's is similar to the differences between an economy car and a luxury car.
All work well for the task. If used lightly all last about the same. If used a lot then the luxury car will look better longer and will do the job with more comfort and panache.
A Rock Island is a good 1911, will shoot reliably and fairly straight. The fit and finish is not as good as a Kimber(Cadillac) or Les Baer(Rolls). In ten years the Rock Island will likely be worth a little more than what you can get one today. The Kimber or Les Baer will likely double in price.
The Kimber and guns of that ilk will shoot more accurately out of the box also, since they will have better triggers and match grade barrels. More care is taken in the fit and finish. It doesn't take much hand labor to dramatically raise the price of a gun.
Assuming 100 % (of anything) is the goal. 50 % is easy, 80 % attainable. The last 20 % is harder than the first 80%. I consider a Rock Island about 60-70 percent good. A Springfield with bells and whistles 85%, a Kimber 88%.
ljg
ljg
The difference between the various 1911's is similar to the differences between an economy car and a luxury car.
All work well for the task. If used lightly all last about the same. If used a lot then the luxury car will look better longer and will do the job with more comfort and panache.
A Rock Island is a good 1911, will shoot reliably and fairly straight. The fit and finish is not as good as a Kimber(Cadillac) or Les Baer(Rolls). In ten years the Rock Island will likely be worth a little more than what you can get one today. The Kimber or Les Baer will likely double in price.
The Kimber and guns of that ilk will shoot more accurately out of the box also, since they will have better triggers and match grade barrels. More care is taken in the fit and finish. It doesn't take much hand labor to dramatically raise the price of a gun.
Assuming 100 % (of anything) is the goal. 50 % is easy, 80 % attainable. The last 20 % is harder than the first 80%. I consider a Rock Island about 60-70 percent good. A Springfield with bells and whistles 85%, a Kimber 88%.
ljg
ljg
YMMV but I`d put Para`s standards above Kimbers anyday. Kimbers are beautifuly designed but I`ve had a couple reliability/service dept. issue`s with them. That being said I`d also put the DW and the older Colts a step above the Para or say Springfields as far as fit and functioning smooth.
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