1911 custom mods?

[iMagUdspEllr]

I was interested in purchasing a 1911 and I stumbled upon the ridiculous amount of modifications.

I was wondering what modifications/features you guys/gals prefer/like on your 1911? I was hoping I could get away with buying a stock model with as many of the ideal features on it as possible without having to buy a custom 1911 or having to take the one that I do buy to a gunsmith to have work done.

I just wanted to find out what kinds of features are worth forking the money over for (because I can see how expensive 1911s can become). Thank you all in advance for your input.

 

[45Gunner]

Unless you are doing something competitive, all those expensive mods are not necessary. Night sights are almost an essential and after that, not much else is needed. There are 1911's I have purchased for around $400 (RIA) that are great shooters. Didn't like the stock grips so changed those for about $70 and will add night sights ($150). The action is smooth as is the trigger. The gun is accurate and reliable. Why spend $3000 to have someone's name on a gun?

 

[alloy]

Have 3, am a cheapskate, like them plain.

 

[omega]

Unless you are doing something competitive, all those expensive mods are not necessary.

45Gunner says it all. All of those modifications you see and hear about are either a) serious competition controls, or b) cosmetic dressings.

And, yes, you can spend a lot of money 'modifying' an already serviceable 1911. Find one you like at a reasonable price, and then take it slow with the mods. Once you get into it, you'll find that most of the upgraded parts are drop-in, part-for-part swaps that only the user can really appreciate.

 

[J.Netto]

Springfield Mil Spec - Everything you need, and nothing you don't.

 

[VHinch]

I was wondering what modifications/features you guys/gals prefer/like on your 1911?

The question is, what do you want in a 1911? I can tell you all day long what works for me, but it makes no difference if your preferences are different.

I was hoping I could get away with buying a stock model with as many of the ideal features on it as possible

There are enough options on the market to find a production 1911 that fits virtually any set of specifications. If you want a more or less traditional 1911 but with better sights, J.Netto's suggestion of the Springfield Mil Spec is an excellent one. For my preferences, the Springfield Loaded would be more appropriate.

With a better idea of what you're looking for, we can almost certainly help you find a production 1911 that will have what you want.

Unless you are doing something competitive, all those expensive mods are not necessary

I prefer a beavertail grip safety to prevent hammer bite, a flat checkered MSH with long trigger to fit my hand properly, and a single side extended thumb safety. What do any of those have to with competing?

The power steering on my truck isn't "necessary" either, but it sure makes it more pleasant to drive.

Find one you like at a reasonable price, and then take it slow with the mods.

And you'll spend significantly more money than you would have buying the way you wanted to begin with.

Once you get into it, you'll find that most of the upgraded parts are drop-in, part-for-part swaps that only the user can really appreciate.

Virtually nothing on a 1911 can "drop in" and fit correctly.

 

[oldcspsarge]

Welcome to the World of 1911 format pistols !

You may want to make a list of the features you want to include before shopping for a 1911 . Then decide on a price point !

Sights you can see vs. original GI sights are a plus.
If the factory sights are dove-tail type (front & rear)
it allows for the most options without having to pay a gunsmith to mill a dove-tail.

Commander style hammer and beaver-tail grip safety will keep hammer bite on your hand away and spread you the recoil on the web of your hand.

Ambi-safety ? something else to catch clothing on or come loose.

Most will need a little gunsmithing to polish the feed ramp and throat the barrel as they come designed to feed just 230 FMJ military ball ammo.
Trigger may need a little clean up.

For the $$$ the Taurus 1911 has a lot of features, made in Brazil like it's Springfield brother....with a lifetime warranty out of Florida.

US Made : S&W has nice features.
For everything done premium quality, everything hand fitted = Les Baer.

A wide range of choices !

 

[michael t]

Most will need a little gunsmithing to polish the feed ramp and throat the barrel as they come designed to feed just 230 FMJ military ball ammo.

This was true many years ago but majority of new guns feed HP very well manufacturers have corrected the ball only feed . My $400 America Classic has fired HP starting with 2 mag with out trouble Just like my Colts or Dan Wesson
They have kept up with the times Just like the Compact 1911 have become very reliable last few years No more under 4" not reliable but people still say that because they never tried a new on and the internet say its true

I have guns with and with out beaver tails same for Ambi safety I think extened mag release large paddle safety and extended slide release are not needed on a carry pistol Fine for range or games. I keep my carry 1911 simple

 

[omega]

Virtually nothing on a 1911 can "drop in" and fit correctly.

You're scarin' the OP off, VHinch.

The majority of good sights require dove-tail machining, but kindly name one other part that can not be found to drop in.

You're gonna' make the man want to go buy a Glock.

 

[SilentHitz]

but kindly name one other part that can not be found to drop in.

Ext. slide lock, thumb safety, grip safety, oops, that's more than one sorry. I could go on but you get the point. Having built more than a few from the frame up, I can tell you there are very few parts that don't need fitting. Can you get lucky and get parts that drop into your pistol? Sure can, I've had it happen, but very few times.

Be sure to check out the RIA tactical model, has most features that folks want, and don't break the bank. I have 2 and both run great. I changed nothing except the grips.

 

[tom234]

I found the only add-on/modification I needed was a set of CT laser grips....

 

[VHinch]

but kindly name one other part that can not be found to drop in.

Most any parts are available as drop ins, but that's not what I said.

Virtually nothing on a 1911 can "drop in" and fit correctly.

I'd pose the question the other way. What can you drop in?

Beavertail grip safety - Sure, if you don't mind the gap you could throw a screaming cat through, but you still have to fit the arm to the trigger for safe function.

Thumb safety - Absolutely not, has to be fit correctly to the sear for safe function.

Hammer, sear, disconnect - All need to be their engagment surfaces fit together. You might not create a dangerous situation, but that doesn't mean it's right.

Trigger - Sure, if you don't mind the sloppy vertical play.

Mainspring housing - Generally speaking, these will drop in with no issues, but not always.

Barrel bushing - No problem unless you're wanting a better/tighter fit, in which case you wouldn't be dropping in anyway.

Guide rods - This one I'll give you.

 

[omega]

Say what?

I'd pose the question the other way. What can you drop in?

Beavertail grip safety - Sure, if you don't mind the gap you could throw a screaming cat through, but you still have to fit the arm to the trigger for safe function.

Thumb safety - Absolutely not, has to be fit correctly to the sear for safe function.

Hammer, sear, disconnect - All need to be fit together. You might not create a dangerous situation, but that doesn't mean it's right.

Trigger - Sure, if you don't mind the sloppy vertical play.

Mainspring housing - Generally speaking, these will drop in with no issues.

Guide rods - This one I'll give you.

Gosh, you make it sound like every 1911 since WWI has been hand built. There is more to life than Brownells for finding quality parts. I've built many a excellent gun with nothing more than a small set of files, and other than dove-tailed sights, the rest of the weapon runs on pins. PINS.

You name the part, I'll provide the link and catalog number for a quality drop-in.

 

[VHinch]

You name the part, I'll provide the link and catalog number for a quality drop-in.

I think I just did that...

The quality of the part has nothing to do with it. I didn't say the parts had to be hand made, I said they had to be fit. If you fit it, it isn't a drop in.

 

[omega]

Tell me how you take a thumb safety, a part that has to be fit to the sear to correctly block all movement, and expect it to drop in with no fitting?

The thumb safety blocks the hammer (no fitting) and the slide. The grip safety blocks the trigger (no fitting). The disconnect blocks the firing pin (no fitting). This is why cocked and locked is OK and preferred for carry.

As a matter of fact, the grip safety is probably one the easiest parts to install (sequence is important, tho) and can be had in a variety of ambi configurations. Some require a nasty cut in the starboard grip (don't recommend), while others utilize the hammer pin for connectivity (nice). But all drop in without regard to the sear.

 

[azredhawk44]

The thumb safety blocks the hammer (no fitting) and the slide.

And if it's too loose/sloppy, it is then too easy to disengage. You can disengage it by breathing on it, or rubbing it against your shirt.

If it's too tight, it takes two wrestlers and a tractor-trailor to engage/disengage the safety.

Most quality parts come oversized and must be fit.

 

[omega]

And if it's too loose/sloppy, it is then too easy to disengage. You can disengage it by breathing on it, or rubbing it against your shirt.

If it's too tight, it takes two wrestlers and a tractor-trailor to engage/disengage the safety.

Most quality parts come oversized and must be fit.

Well then just look at the thing. The thumb safety engagement is a simple function of the safety's cog (as a detent) running past the spring loaded plunger tube. If you must run off to the smithy to tune it (which you probably won't) then be all means run off to the smithy.

Again, a small set of files and some common sense. Batteries not included.

 

[SilentHitz]

Again, a small set of files and some common sense.

And what do you think the smith uses to "fit it"? Same tools If you have to use needle files on the part, it's not a "drop in".

 

[VHinch]

Wow.

The thumb safety blocks the hammer (no fitting) and the slide.

Wrong. The thumb safety doesn't even touch the hammer. The spur on the back of the thumb safety blocks the sear from movement. This is pretty much 1911 101.

This is how a 1911 thumb safety works - picture from John Holbrook, as posted on THR-

The grip safety blocks the trigger (no fitting).

The arm of the grip safety does indeed block the trigger, but it has to be the correct length to do so. Virtually any quality grip safety is going to have an arm that is intentionally to long so it can be filed to the correct length.

The disconnect blocks the firing pin (no fitting).

I sincerely hope this is supposed to be a joke. The disconnect has absolutely zero interaction with the firing pin.

When the weapon is in battery and ready to fire, the disconnect paddle is between the trigger and the sear legs. When the trigger is pulled, the disconnect is pushed into the sear, causing it to rotate off the hammer hooks, and the hammer falls.

When the weapon fires and the slide moves to the rear and out of battery, the rail in the slide pushes the disconnect into the frame and it drops below the sear legs, enabling the to rotate back into position to catch the hammer hooks, and hold the hammer at full cock position. In no way does it interact with the firing pin.

 

[Dino.]

My SA "GI" is pretty much stock, with the exception of a GI stamped trigger and a wide GI hammer (both by EGW).