grymster2007
New member
Hey pards; I have one incoming and it will be my first open top. So what's with the wedge? How do I operate this thing?
1849 Pocket
- Thread starter grymster2007
- Start date
okiefarmer
New member
Brass drift punch, and light taps, then it pulls out by hand far enough to remove barell. I had nightmares about my wedge in a new 1851 Navy, but it came out a lot easier than I thought.
I have an 1860 that all I have to do is push across with my thumb and the wedge is out, and this is after tapping in with a small mallet after cleaning. Go figger. I turn the cylinder just a tad and use the loading rod and push down on the cylinder web to push the barell off the post and pins, then it pulls off by hand.
I have an 1860 that all I have to do is push across with my thumb and the wedge is out, and this is after tapping in with a small mallet after cleaning. Go figger. I turn the cylinder just a tad and use the loading rod and push down on the cylinder web to push the barell off the post and pins, then it pulls off by hand.
Fingers McGee
New member
bedbugbilly
New member
While you are on the subject of barrel wedges in Colts . . . ..
O.K. . . I know that ideally, the wedge should be able to be pushed in and pushed out with thumb pressure - not having to use an arbor press and a dozen elephants each time. For those that have "adjusted" their wedges so they are easy to take in and out - what is the secret?
Should the wedge be taken out and "honed" on an oilstone?
When I got my '51 Navy years ago, there was a burr on the wedge slot in the cylinder pin and on one of the corners of the wedge. I carefully filed the wedge slot to remove the burr and gently honed the wedge on an oil stone. This helped, but I still have problems at times with it.
Are there any secrets to it?
Many thanks for anyone's advice or experiences.
O.K. . . I know that ideally, the wedge should be able to be pushed in and pushed out with thumb pressure - not having to use an arbor press and a dozen elephants each time. For those that have "adjusted" their wedges so they are easy to take in and out - what is the secret?
Should the wedge be taken out and "honed" on an oilstone?
When I got my '51 Navy years ago, there was a burr on the wedge slot in the cylinder pin and on one of the corners of the wedge. I carefully filed the wedge slot to remove the burr and gently honed the wedge on an oil stone. This helped, but I still have problems at times with it.
Are there any secrets to it?
Many thanks for anyone's advice or experiences.
grymster2007
New member
Did people carry a brass punch and hammer in the field?
Fingers McGee
New member
Yep, in the same bag that they carried their toothbrush, toothpaste, and deoderant
.Seriously, when in the field, they used anything at hand that would tap the wedge out. Probably why originals look like they've been run through a concrete mixer full of rocks.
grymster2007
New member
So despite the fact that UPS had some difficulty with my package, I did receive it today. After the first fondle, I'd have to say I'm pleased with the little revolver. Bluing looks good, grips OK, fit and finish acceptable and the action is crisp with no binding. Also, the wedge works just as you folks said it would.
Everything was great.... but Santa apparently does know who's been naughty or nice, so when I opened the conversion cylinder package I received from Taylor's about a week ago, first thing I noticed was that it is a five shot conversion, not the six shot they advertise. Then a tried a 32 S&W cartridge and it seems that the counterbores that provide the rim relief are undersize and the cartridge won't seat properly. Then I tried to install the cylinder, but it binds up before the wedge can even be seated all the way.
I've emailed Taylor's, but while I'm waiting, does anyone know what may have gone wrong with this thing?
Everything was great.... but Santa apparently does know who's been naughty or nice, so when I opened the conversion cylinder package I received from Taylor's about a week ago, first thing I noticed was that it is a five shot conversion, not the six shot they advertise. Then a tried a 32 S&W cartridge and it seems that the counterbores that provide the rim relief are undersize and the cartridge won't seat properly. Then I tried to install the cylinder, but it binds up before the wedge can even be seated all the way.
I've emailed Taylor's, but while I'm waiting, does anyone know what may have gone wrong with this thing?
madcratebuilder
New member
You may have an incorrect conversion cylinder. What make is the 1849 you bought?
grymster2007
New member
I bought an Uberti. The cylinder box is marked:
PAR1849CONV
UBT 1849 CONVERSION .32 S&W SHORT
The documentation in the box also mentions the cylinder is a six shot unit for Uberti 1849.