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I decided to finally get on the Enfield bandwagon and bought this from Classic Arms. Handpicked, it was around $270 with shipping.

I've been saving for a TT-33 and was almost ready to order when I discovered the local Gander Mountain had a Walther P1 for $199, about what an online TT would cost. $199 seems cheap for a P1, and they claim that it has a new barrel. Mechanically, it seemed sound and the barrel did look good...

I'd like to start browsing the Internet auction sites for milsurps but am not sure about the actual transfer process if I should buy one. I have a C&R - can an individual transfer a C&R firearm to me if they don't have one themselves? I'm trying to avoid the whole 01 FFL middle-man transfer issue.

I have a few dollars burning a hole in my pocket, so I went gun shopping here in Amarillo - a somewhat dismal time considering today's high prices and low inventories. I came across two rifles that caught my attention, a Savage 93BTVS and an EAA Biathlon Basic, both in .22lr. The Savage is $390...

I've read several times that one should consider replacing the recoil spring in older semi-autos, due to age, wear, fatigue, etc. I've also noticed that the springs come in pound ratings other than the original factory rating. What are the reasons for installing either an over- or under-rated...

I'm interested in these handguns but really can't find what the differences are, besides the obvious, like country and company. In fact, I suspect the 82/83 is just a refined Czech clone of the PM, whereas the PM seems more scarce and maybe more collectible.

I don't know how to ask this without sounding completely new, but here goes - I've bought several milsurp rifles (91/30, M38, M95, K31) and the wood on those was in good shape. There were a few dings and dents, and places where the finish was worn off, but they were all basically brown. However...

I bought a Steyr-Mannlicher M1895 carbine last night and have done a little research on it this morning. What I can't find is what the small 'ball-and-post' on the upper band and sits to the left of the barrel is for. I had originally thought it was for the bayonet, but now I know that mounts to...

I've noticed that on older firearms, especially rifles, that the bluing looks like it wears off evenly, like down the length of the barrel, not just where it may rub off due to handling, like the trigger, bolt handle, safety, etc. Does bluing wear, fade, or somehow become less effective over time?

I know what counterboring is and why it might be done, but is it just a last ditch effort to save a shot out barrel? In other words, is it something to avoid?

Why is it that, the older the rifle, the more likely the barrel would be covered? My first guess would be for protection from the elements, but I don't think blueing has changed in 150 years and laying a wood "guard" could actually trap moisture more than repel it.

...as I just sent off my C&R paperwork last night.